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ILLUSTRATED MICHELIN GUIDE5 FOR
THE VI5IT TO THE BATTLE-FIELDS

BATTLE-FIELDS OF
THE MARNE 1914

THE OURGQ

CHANTILLY ^ SENLIS _ MEAUX

ILLUSTRATED MICHELIN GUIDES
PARIS

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Hotels and motor-agents.

SSM. P^litial hotels, very luxurious.
mii Firit-class hotels.

l>fl| Comfortable hotels, with modem, or modernised installation.
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© Hotels where it is possible to lunch or dine well.
5" Small hotels or inns where good meals can be obtained.

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Garage and number of
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Petrol Depot.

Electric itation or instal-
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MEAUX (Seine-et-Mame).

£Sl de la Sirfene, 84 r. St-Nicola». Prices in 1914. Meals 1,25. 3,60. 3,50
Bed-room 3 to 12 Chauffeur 7,60 "& (wc) Garage free gl Shed
free [J] f Sir4ne :f> 83.
Si des Trois-Rois, 1 r. det Ursulines and 30 r. St-Rimy. Prices in 1914.
Meals 1,25. 3,60. 3,50 Bed-room 2,50 Chauffeur 7 (wc) Shed 2]
Inner courtyard free ^ 7f> 146.
»^» MICHELIN STOCK (COMPRESSED A IR) Garage Central (A. Feillde^
17-21 r. du Grand-Cerf. Agt de : Panhard, Rknaclt, dk Diow. ^

u © ® :F' 59.

— MICHELIN STOCK Auio-Qarage aeVneaux{E.y/ancB), 55-57 pi. du

Marche. Agt de : Dblahayk. ^ U © % 7> 84.
SENLIS (Oise).

Iiil*l du Grand-Cerf, 47 r. de la Bepuhlique. Prices in 1914. Meals 1,26.
3,60. 3,50 (wine not included) Bed-room 4 to 10 Chauffeur 7 @ ^
■^f (wo) Inner coach-house /ree OUT Grandcerf ^ 111.
Q des Arines, 30 rue de Beauvais. Prices in 1914. Meals 0,75. 3. 3
Bed-room 2 to 5 Chauffeur 6 (wc) Inner coach-house [J] ott ^ 17.
fT" MICHEUN STOCK Guinot, 8 pi. de la Halle. Stock : dk Dion. Agt de :
Pkugkot. S] "U" :}<> 46.

— MICHELIN STOCK L. Buat and A. R^mond, 2 rue de Crepy. Ags de :

Panhaed, RknaultT, Cottin-Dksoouttm, Dklahayb, Roohet-

SOHNKIDliR, MOES. ^ U © \ :?*> 38.

CHANTILLY (Oise).

WS du Grand-Cond6, av. de la Gare. Closed in 1917. Prices in 1914.

Meals 2. 6. 7 (Mealt h la carte for patsing visitors) Chauffeur 10

Asc @ ^ "S" (wc) Gar IS U ^J* 52.
t^ d'Angleterre, r. de Paris and pi. de I'Hdpital. Prices in 1914. Meals

1.25. 8,50. 3,50 Bed-room 4 to 8 Chauffeur 7 ^ 'Q' (wc) Inner

shed free [8] :p 59.
|8JL Noguey's Family Hotel, 10 av. de la Gare. Prices in 1914. Meals 1,50.

3,50. 4 (wine not included) Bed-room 4 to 8 Chauffeur 7,50 § "S"

(wc) Inner coach-house [5] ^ 146.
ff» MICHELIN STOCK Grigaut, 72 r. du ConrUtdble. 'J^ 1.14.

— MICHELIN STOCK Garage Bourdeau, 1 his r. de Gouvieux. [g] U

Si de I'Ermitage.
ACY-EN-mULTIEN (Oise).

3» Hotel du Cheval-Rouge.

The above information, dating from 1st August 1917, may possibly he no
longer exact when this falls under the readers eyes. It would be more prudent
therefore before making the tour described in this volume, to consult the latest
French edition of the ' Guide Michelin'.

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IN MEMORY

OF Tin: MIC.HHLIX KMPLOYKKS

AND WORKMEN WHO DIED GLORIOUSLY

FOR THEIR f.OUNTRY

BATTLE OF llIK MARXK

THE OUPiCQ BATTLE-FIELDS

MEAUX — SENITS — CHANTJLLY

All rights of translation, adaptation or reproduction
(in part or whole), reserved, in all countries.

FOREWORD

For the benefit of tourists who wish to visit the battle-fields and mutilated
towns of France we liave tried to produce a work combining a practical guide and
a history.

Such a visit should be a pilgrimage, not merely a journey across tlie
ravaged land. Seeing is not enough, one must understand: a ruin is more
moving when one Ixiiows what has ecnised it; a stretch of country which might
seem dull and uninteresting to tlie unenlightened eye, becomes transformed at
the thought of the bailies whicli have raged tlicre.

We have therefore prefaced the description of our journeys by a short account
of the events which took jilace on the ground covered by this guide, and we have
done our best to make this account quite clear by the use of many illustrations
and maps.

In the course of the description we give a brief military commentary on the
numerous views and panoramas contained in the book.

When we come across a place tliat is interesting either from an archaeological
or an artistic point of view, there ivc halt, even though the war has passed it by,
that the tourist may realise that it was to preserve this heritage of history and
beauty intact, that so many of our Iieroes have fallen.

Our readers will not find any attempt at literary effect in these pages; tlie
truth is too beautiful and tragic to be altered for tlie sake of embellishing the
story; we have therefore carefully sifted the grcatvolume of evidence available , and
selected only that obtained from official documents or reliable eye-witnesses.

This book appears before the end of the war, but the country over which it
leads the reader has long been freed. The wealth of illustration in this work
allows the intending tourist to make a ]>reliminary trip in imagination, until
such time as circumstances permit of his undertaking tlie journey in reality,
beneath the sunny skies of France.

HISTORlCiAL PART

IMPORTANT NOTE. — On pages 4 to 14 will be found a short account
of the battle of the Ourcq and its preliminaries.

AVe advise tourists to read these eleven pages, or at least to glance at
the maps they contain, before making the tour, a description of which com-
mences (;n page 18. A clear understanding of the action as a whole
is indispensable in order to follow the account of the separate battles with
interest.

This perusal will enable the reader to grasp the reason why the battle
fought by the Army of Paris has come into history under the name of the
Battle of the Ourcq. As will be seen, the struggle took place conside-
rably to the west of the river, so we do not lead the tourist right up to its
banks, but it was to reach the Valley of the Ourcq that the French
fought Willi so much heroism and it was in defending its approaches that
the Germans showed such great tenacitv.

HISTORICAL

FRENCH

General Joffre,
Cf)inniaiuler-in-Chief.

General Gaij.ikni,

Commanding the intrenched
camp of Paris

had under his orders the Gth Army

(General Maunoury)

IMAUXnURY

GALLIENI

COMPONENTS OF THE 6th ARMY

7th Corps \ 14th Act. Uiv. (Gen. de Villaret).

(Gen. Vautier) / 63rd Res. Div. (Gen. Lombard) .

.55th Res. Div. (Gen. Leguay). .
5th Group Res. Div. ' 56th Res. Div.(Gen. de Dartein).
(Gen. DE Lamaze) J

' Moroccan brigade (Gen. Ditte) .

45th Algerian Div. (Gen. Drude)

( After liaviii-' fciu;lit in Alsac- were
) cnlci-cMl tM the SoiiiHif on An.-.
1 -'ItUanil took p:ii-t iu al! r\,is-.-. -

f llll'llts.

( After liaviii:^' t'ou,i,'lit in the Ilants-
) (lo-5Ieuse;irrive(i at tlieSomme on
j Aug. 29th and tool^ pari in :rll
I engagements.

( Arriving Croni Africa toolv ]p:;rt in
I all engagemcnt^;.

) Laiiiliiig from Africa,
I action Sejit. 8tli.

4th Corps

7th Act. Div. (Gen. de Trenti-

NIAX)

(Gen. Bceixe) | ^^^^ ^^,^^ ^.^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ Lartigue) . |

Leaving- tlio liril Army on Seiit. 2nil,
passed iiniler (iiii. Mannourv's
orders on tlio .')tli and oiil_\' came
into action on tlu' Ttli.

ethGroupRes. Div. j 61st Res. Div. (Gen. Deprez) .
(Gen. Ebener) / 62nd Res. Div. (Gen. Ganeval)

Cavalry

I 1st Corps (Gen. Sordet)
( Brigade Gillet ....

/ Suffered severely around Camljrai
I and were sent to form up again iu
\ the intrenched camp of I'aris.
They only came into action on
i the 7th and the G2nd div., nhicli

(suffered chiefly, only took part in
the pursuit.

/ Tlio cavalry, which greatly suffered
1 in the rotreaf from Cliarlcroi.
J onlv jilayed a minor part in tin;
battle.

HISTORICAL

BRITISH

Ficld-.Marshal Sir John Frf.xcii
Coiiiniaiider-in -Chief

of tlie British Expeditionary
Forces.

DOUGLAS HAIG

1st Corps
(Lieut. Gen. Sir Douglas Haig)

2nd Corps
(Gen. Sir Horace Smith Dorrien)

3rd Corps
(Lieut. Gen. Pultexey)

Cavalry Division
(Gen. Allenby)

<inco llio 24th of August had coiiio
througli Ihc whole retreat o;' t'har-
leroi. with moving wing, lighting
continuallyagain.st vastly superior
forces.

GERMAN

1st Armv : General vox Kluck

I\th Res. Corps ......... . . ...

II nd Act. I This is a p.irt of Kliiek's Army

IV th Act. — . which in its initial adv.inoe foroe<l

2nd Cavalrv division ,' the Allie.<' let't win- into a rapid

„., ■■ I retreat from the .s.unljre.

9tn — — \

1st — — of the Guards ........

vox KLUCK

HISTORICAL

THE FIRST DAY OF SEPTEIVIBER, 1914

EXPLANATORY

SKETCH

OF POSITIONS

J> THE MOnMNG

The French attack, which has been called the battle of Chaiieioi. having
failed on the 22-24th August, General Joffre promptly broke off the engage-
ment and on August 25th ordered a general retreat until such time as, the
reforming of the French forces being completed and a more favourable
occasion presenting itself, it should be possible to check and then drive
back the German armies.

The following was the generalissimo's plan : to mass troops on the left
which should attempt to outflank the German right, while a general attack
(or at least a stubborn resistance) was maintained on the rest of the front.

On August 27th the 6th Army, entrusted with the outflanking movement,
was constituted, as shown on pages 4 and 5, and placed under the command
of General INIaunoury. It was formed in the Somme from drafts taken from
the Eastern armies and brought to the scene of operations by means of
a clever railway organisation begun on August 24th.

On September 1st, the Gth army occupied tlie Bresles, Clermont. Sacy-le-
Grand and Verberie line. The 4th British division formed a cor.tinualion
on the right.

The Germans, masters of Compiegne, attacked the British on the Ver-
berie— Nery line, which yielded. Maunoury then ordered the retreat to
be continued. But the columns marching towards the South had to avoid
being outflanked. The 56th division, the Moroccan brigade and one
cavalry division were ordered to cover the Senlis — Creil — Chantilly gaj)
as long as necessary. The ^Moroccan brigade took up its covering position
on the Pont-Sainte-Maxence, JNIont-rHveque line. The 111th brigade of
the 56th division was supporting Chamant and the 112th in reserve west
of Senlis; the cavalry was in front of the Moroccans.

During the day. the Germans, repulsing the French cavalry and the 4lh
British division, reached Roberval and Rully; the Franco-British line passed
through Pont-Sainte-Maxcncc. Mont-ri'ivcque, Montepilloy and Fiesnoy.

EXPLANATORY

SKETCH

OF POSITIO! S

IN THE EVENING

HISKIIUCAI.

THE SECOND DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1914

POSITIONS

IN THE EVtNING

The following tasks were entrusted to the 56th division : — until mid-day
— to hold yesterday's positions facing east, in order to protect the Creil —
Chantilly line; from mid-day until G o'clock in the evening to prevent the
Germans from passing out of Senlis towards the south.

In the morning there was hot lighting between the French batteries placed
on the heights north-east of Senlis and the batteries of the IVth German
corps. Towards 10 o'clock the British evacuated the dominating position
of Slontepilloy. The Germans immediately took possession of it and esta-
blished their howitzer batteries, the fire of which, directed by aeroplanes,
considerably hampered the French artillery.

After 11 o'clock the covering troops began to fall back under the enemies'
fire which followed them as far as Senlis and was replied to until the last
moment by the French batteries, and several of these sutTered severely.
IMcanwhile, the 112th brigade took possession of the line of defence hastily
made south of Senlis. This position comprised two lines of trenches dug on
either side of the " route nationale " su])porlcd by two machine gun sections
and an artillery group which, established north-west of Mont I'l^vcque,
countered the German gunners at Montepilloy. At 4 o'clock the last eche-
lons which passed out of SenUs, lighting, were closely followed by the Ger-
man advance guard which was immediately subjected to a fierce fusillade.

The Germans retired precipitately and we shall read further on, in the
description of the burnings and murders at
Senlis, how they took revenge for this unex-
pected resistance.

An hour and a half later an attack was launch-
ed against the ;^61st, which held the lines of
trenches. The Germans came out of Senlis push-
ing a group of civilians in front of them. The
French troops ceased firing when they heard the
shrieks of these hostages, but unfortunately some
of the latter had already been killed and wounded.

The fight lasted about half an hour; a counter-
attack by the 350th infantry regiment, placed
in reserve in the forest of Pontarnie, sent the
Germans back into Senlis, and the 112lh bri-
gade, its covering mission accomplished, retired
from the Senlis — Borest front.

In the evening, the (Uh army occupied Ihe
Meru, Xeuilly-cn-Thelle, Mortetimtaine line.

AR] 1.1 N
)MMANDn

CiTH i;iv.,-.ioS

THE THIRD DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1914

IIISTOmCAL

POSITIONS
IN THE tVENING

(ii;X. DITTi:

( OMMANDING

ailE MOROCCAN

BUIGADE

The 6th army continued its retreat obliquely towards the south-east, in
order to secure the defence of the north-cast sector of the intrenched camp
of Paris, under General Gallieni's command, himself under the supreme
command of General Joffre. The active collaboration of these two great
chiefs was one of the important factors in the victory of the Marne.

After long and painful marching, in overpowering heat, the 6th army
occupied the Iverny, Dammartin-cn-Goele, Le Mesnil-Aubry line.
During the day Gallieni published the famous proclamation :
Army of Paris, Inhabitants of Paris. The members of the Government o/
the Republic have left Paris to give a fresh impetus to the national defence.
I have received orders to defend Paris against the invader: tlicse orders 1 shall
carry out to the end.

The anxiety that had gripped the French nation since the crushing advance
of Kliick's army had been made known was now intense. ^Vould Paris fall?
The German Grand Command must have been vastly tempted to push
on towards the coveted town, but the menace of the Allied army still existed,
so it was decided to first destroy the Allied forces, before turning upon
Paris, which would then fall like a ripe pear.

Consequently, the German Ilnd and IVth active corps were despatched
towards the south-east and crossed the Ourcq at Lizy and Marcuil, in pursuit of
the British army. The German IVth reserve corps had reached the Luzarclies-
Mortefontaine line and advance patrols were seen near Ecouen, 13 km. from
the gates of I'aris, hut the fascination of the capital had to be resisted and
the l\'lh corps in its turn jiroceeded obliquely towards the I'ast to protect

the flank of Kliick's army.

There will probably be arguments formally
a year as to whether the German stall
was right or wrong in giving up the direct
advance on Paris. However that may be,
von Kliick certainly did not expect such
a violent attack from the Army of Paris.
" There was but one General ", he declared,
" who, against all rules, would have ven-
tured to carry the fight so far beyond
his fine of defence; unluckily for me, that
man was Gallieni ".

Indeed, from that day, September 3rd,
the turningof the German right was foreseen
by Gallieni, who immediately pointed it
out to Joffre and suggested making a flank
attack.

HISTORICAL

THE FOURTH AND FIFTH DAYS OF SEPTEMBER, i9i4

I'o.-nioxs

ON THE EVKMNC
Ol- THE DTIl

On the day of the 1th. Joffre, after communicating with GalUeni. consi-
dered the conditions favourable for renewing the offensive and decided to
begin a general engagement on the 6th.

His instructions enjoined upon all the available forces of Die (ilh .\rmy to
1)6 between Lizy-sur-Ourcq and May-en-Multien on the "ith in the evening,
ready to cross the Ourcq at the rear of Kliick's army.

On the 4th the army prepared for battle: on the 5th it strove to reach
the positions assigned to it; whereupon ensued a fierce encounter with the
IVth Reserve Corps. After violent fighting for the possession of Monthyon
and Penchard, the Lamazc group spent the night on the Saint-Soupplet.s —
Montge — Iverny — Charny line. The 7th corps took up its position on the
left and only came in for a few advance-guard actions at the norlh of Saint-
Soupplets; but it constituted a menace to the IVth corp's flank and forced
the latter to evacuate the Monthyon — Penchard line during the night.

The British army, according to the generalissimo's instructions, was to
occupy, on the .^th in the evening, a line running from north to south, from
Changis (East of Meaux) to Coulommiers, ready to make an attack east-
wards and take the German forces in the flank. But Field-Marshal French's
troops were exhausted by the painful retreat which, since the 24th August,
had compelled them to cover 40 to 50 km. o day, fighting all the time there-
fore their volte-face was but slowly carried out and in the evening they were
no further than the Vaudny — Pezarches — Haute-P>uillc — Grand Morin line.

Thus neither the Cith Army nor the British Army succeeded in occujning
the appointed positions for the opening of the general attack, which made
the enveloping movement far more difficult to carry out.

HISTORICAL

THE SIXTH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 6914

POSITIONS
IN THE EVENING

The special aim for tliis day, on the Frcncli side, was a frontal attack and
the outflanking on its right of the German IVth reserve corps.

At dawn the French right (Lamaze group) seized Saint-Soupplets and
Monthyoii; at 9 o'clock it reached the Chambry — Barcy — Oissery front;
but on the left wing, engaged in the outflanking movement, the 7th corps
met (near Etavigny) a part of the German llnd active corps, which,
drawing away from the British army, hastened by forced marches to the
assistance of the IVth reserve corps.

This was the beginning of von Kliick's clever manoeuvre; he saw the
danger threatening his army from JNIaunoury's flank attack and took advan-
tage of the exhausted condition of the British to throw all his forces on the
6th Army, bring it to a standstill and so avoid disaster.

At the end of the day the French occu]iicd the Chambry — Marcilly —
Puisieux — Acyen-Multien line.

The British Army went on straightening itself out and reached the Crecy-
en-Brie — Goulommiers — Choisy en-Brie line.

On the Gth the army received JofTre's historic proclamation :

.4/ the commencement of a battle on which depends the safely of our Counlri/,
it is necessari] to remind everyone that there must be no lookin'j bad:.

Every effort must be made to attack and drive off the enemy. Am/ Iroojis,
which can no longer advance, musl at all costs keep what ground lliry have
won. and die rather than fall back. In existing circumstances, no ivcakncss
(an be lokralcd.

HISTORICAL

THE SEVENTH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, I9!4

POMl 1I1N>

IN iiiL i.v;:mn<

Since morning llic struggle liad been resumed but tl:c French now began
to feel the eflects of the German heavy artillery established between Var-
reddes and May-en-Multien, out of range of the 75's. and their progress was
retarded. On their right the fighting spread around Marcilly, Barcy and
Chambry: on their left the 7th corps, extended towards Villers-Saint-
Genest by the 61st reserve division that Gallieni had sent as a reinforcement,
had gained a footing on the plateau of Etavigny; at Puisieux it joined
the Lamaze group.

At the request of Sir .John Frencli. who feared for his connection with the
6th Army, the 8th division of the 4lh corps engaged the Germans occupying
the woods of ?kleaux. south of the Marnc.

At the end of the day the French still had hopes of outflanking the
German right so long as the latter did not receive reinforcements. But
the IVth German active corps, escaping in its turn from the British Army,
recrossed the Alarne and reinforced tlie two corps already engaged. In its
turn it was trying to outflank the 6tli Army on the left.

Von Kluck.'to mask the withdrawal of the Ilnd and IVth corps, deployed
in front of the British army his three cavalry divisions, backed up by artil-
lery and infantry detachments. This rearguard fought stubbornly in order,
if possible, to allow the three German corps of the Ourcq to crush the
6th Army before the British advance should become a decisive factor in
the retreat.

In the evening the British occupied the Maisoncelles— Coulommiers —
Choisv-en-Brie line.

HISTORICAL

THE EIGHTH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, y9§4

IMJM 1 IIINS
I III 1 \1.MNG

SEX. 1)1. I.AMA/I

1M^IA^ l:l U

On tlic 7tli, the 7th division anived in Paris and had to be sent during the
night to ^huinoury's left.

To tlie great astonishment of the Parisians all the taxi-cabs left their
garages and went towards the eastern suburbs of the city.

The police pulled up all those already hired and their passengers, left
stranded in the road, cheered when they heard the reason.

GOO cabs made the journey to Xanteuil twice during the night, with five
men in each. " A civilian's idea ", as Gallieni called it. The rest of the di-
vision went by rail, the artillery followed by road.

This 7th division took up a position between the 01st division and the
7th corjis but the arrival of the IVth German active corps, released from
the Hrilish front, more than neutralized the elTect of this reinforcement.

On the whole front the struggle was fierce :
in the centre the 7th corps and the 63rd re-
serve division (especially the latter), fought with
unflinching firmness around Acy; on the right
I he Lamaze group, with the 45th division from
Africa, launched violent attacks against the
Htrepilly— Varrcddes line, tut with only par-
tial success.

In the afternoon of the same day the Bri-
llsh Army, driving back the German rearguard
.rter fierce fighting at La Tretoire and at
Signy-Signets, crossed the Pelit Morin and
reached the Ferte-sous-Jouarre, Viels-Maisons
front. The Sth division of the 4th French
corps reached the outskirts of Trilport.

A German officer wrote in his notebook on
the Sill :

'I'lw Colnni'l General von Kliick Ims inspected
the (lulposls. I eanuhl sight of him. His eyes,
nsualli] so bri'jlit, are dull. He lolio is generalli/
so alert, speal<s in discourened tones. He is
thorougldii depressed.

HISTORICAL

THE NINTH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1914

PI.IMIIONS

JN THE I;V1N1N(,

On this day the battle of the Ourcq reached its climax.

Under the pressure of the French right and the threatening advance of
the British, tlie Germans were obliged to retire from the Etrepilly — Var-
reddes line; in the centre (in the afternoon) the artillery evacuated the Trocy
plateau towards the north. To facilitate this retreat, von Kliicl: ordered
the lYth active corps debouching from Betz to make a \i)leiit counter
attack upon the French left, whicli bent beneath the shock.

Maimoury then called back the Sth division from its position south of the
Marne, and Gallieni sent him the 62nd division as a reinforcement. Never-
theless the situation remained critical and the left of the 6th Army was in
great danger of being turned and broken. The troops were in a terrible
state of fatigue : orders were asked for an eventual retreat on Paris. But
]Maunoury would not admit this as a possibility and, faithful to
the generalissimo's instructions, gave orders to " Die rather than give
way. "■

The night passed in great anxiety and ended with a most unexpected event.
The next morning, the French saw that the Germans had abandoned their
positions and were hurriedh' retreating to the north-east.

Von Kliick's decision was caused by the progress of the British Army which
crossed the Marne between Luzancy and Nogent-l'Artaud on the 9th, and
in the night crossed the river at Ferte-sous-Jouaric, as also by the intense
resistance of Maunuury's army; he
was in danger of being caught, as
it were, in pincers

Victory thus resleil with the 6th
Army. The German General's clev-
er manoeuvre had prevented the
success of the enveloping move-
ment planned by Joffre and Gal-
lieni, a movement which would
have brought about a German rout ;
but the obstinacy and spirit of
sacrifice of the 6th army had forced
von Kliick to a hurried retreat, the
effect of which was felt by echelons
along the whole front. Paris and
France were saved.

gi:n. boei-i.e
commanding

THE -JtH corps
RECEIVING
AS aviator's
REPO.-.T

IIISTOIUCAL

FROM THE lOTH TO THE J3TH DAY OF SEPTEMBER, 1914

Po-;iTiONS

lit I'ORE

AND AKTIR

THE MARNE

Provins o Franchet d'Esperey

Lang'« ''

On the 10th, Maunoury's splendid order of the day was read to the troops:

Daring five whole days, without lull or interruption, the 6th Army has
sustained battle against a powerful adversary whose moral had hitherto been
exalted by success The fight has been hard ; the losses by gunfire and the
exhaustion due to lacfc of sleep {and sometimes of food) have surpassed any-
thing that could be imagined. You have borne all with a courage, a frmness
and an endurance to which words are powerless to do justice.

Comrades, the Commander-in-Chief asked us, in the name of our Country,
to do more than our duty, your answer to his appeal has surpassed all tfiat
seemed possible. Thanlis to you. Victory crowns our flag. Xow that you
have known the glorious satisfaction of her coming you will never let her escape.

As to myself, any good I may have done has lieen rewarded by the greatest
Iwnour that has been given to me during my long career, that of commanding
men like you.

From the 10th to the 13th of September, the IBritish and the 6th Army
followed close on the heels of the retreating German Army, until the latter
took a stand upon positions prepared in advance. The above explanatory
sketch shows the ground covered during these days of the Marne, which
will remain among the greatest dates in the histor\ ol the world (1).

GEN. DKLDt

COMMANDING

1 HE

45th division

GEN.

DE VILLARET

COMMANDING

THE

1-ItII DIVISION

(l) For the delaileil account of the bittle of the Ourcq,
in La Renaissance of Sept. 4th 1915.

article by General Bounal

HISTORICAL 15

The reader who has made himself acquainted witli the preceding pages
will have acquired a clear and concise idea of the battle of the Ourcq.

We must not lose sight of the fact that these battles, however great
their importance, onl\- occupied a fraction of the enormous firing line which
extended as far as Verdun and of which ail the units were inter-dependent.

For the greater convenience of tourists, we have divided this immense
battle of the Marne into three parts, and have described each one in a volume
which will be used during the two day's motoring needed for the visit to
each section of the theatre of operations.

The reader now holds the first volume, in which he has seen the right of
Kliick's army forced to retreat under the combined efforts of ]\Iavmoury
and French.

The second volume, The Marshes of Saint-Gond, shows the recoil
transmitted from end to end of Kliick's army front. The right of the
adjoining army (Biilow's), became exposed; it could not resist Franchet
d'Fsperey's furious onslaughts and broke; its left, the flank of which
thus became vulnerable, then gave way and carried with it the adjoining
army of Hansen.

BiJlow and Hansen therefore gave up the hope of crushing in the French
centre. Had they succeeded, at the initial stages of the battle, in breaking
through at the place where Foch was in conniiand, Gallieni's efforts on the
(Jurcq would have been rendered useless; but Foch's fierce energy finally
overcame the German assaults.

In the third volume, The Pass of Revigny, we see how the ebbing tide
took one after another the armies of Albrecht von Wiirtemberg and the
Crown Prince, after all their efTorts had been shattered against the stub-
born resistance of Langle de Gary and Sarrail.

Thus is sketched the picture of the battle of the Marne, won by these
same soldiers who had just suffered a reverse in the battle on the frontier,
and effected. " delirious with fatigue ", a retreat which is without prece-
dent in history, reaching a depth of 200 kilometres in ten days. The in-
domitable spirit of the Generalissimo, his clear and judicious plans, carried
out by eminent army leaders in close collaboration, above all the super-
liuman heroism of the troops, these are the factors in what has been
called the Wliracle of the Marne.

OUTLINE OF THE TOUR

This tour, of which a plan is given below, covers the ground on wiiich tiie
fate of Paris was decided in September 1914.

In tlie course of the journe}^ the traveller will live over again the anxious
moment when the Germans, having arrived within gunshot of the capital,
had to decide whether to continue their irresistible march on Paris or
attempt Jirst to put the allied army out of action: he will then reconstruct
the tragic struggle which for five days confronted Gallieni, Maunoury
and von Kliick.

The country traversed has the varied scenery of the Ile-de-France ; from
the vast forests of Valois, the tourist will come to the fertile up-lands of
Brie, intersected by lovely valleys. He will become acquainted with Chan-
tilly, the great Conde's town, afterwards Marshal Joflre's Headquarters;
Scnlis, a jewel of ancient France, wliich narrowly escaped the fate of
Louvain; IMeaux, with its cathedral, its old mills, and the ruins left by the
war in the surrounding villages.

This is the war pilgrimage which should be made by all Parisians and all
tourist spassing through Paris who have a day or two to spare.

Ognon
Chamam^ ^*>^^| QUTUNE OF THE TOOF
r^ ,-11 ^!iri2^^?^- Monlep.lloy i|

ChLintilK/;'^"'*^Senlis ^ •li ^

* ^-^ A Baron

^Ponlarme ' V Chaahs | Betz^^*^

La Chapeile-en-Serval i X r n i \ Boiillarm^ ,

■^ • ' lErmenonvi He i guuudi^ ^

Luzarches ■ ^ ^^ Acyjr

■ ' -^^^Le Plessis-Belleville r\

■ i \\ // .jV.ncy

■ I \X Puisieux^ /^
Le Mesnil-Aubry ♦ I \ ^ If

* '■ \ Marcilly 7 A^t^Trocy

/L™ ■; St-Soupple,s> Jp/EtreSNGue-a-

• '"-^hy^"!^^^^ >^T—
• I , f ^% Cnambry

4^ 1 A \^^^ fVarreddes

* ! j ^^Penchard it

Pierrefille ^ ^ Chaucon^V^

I / Villecarisis ' — ^^ 'MeaUX

I St Denis ♦ ^,r^*-'^^l Cla^e '

R <r Le Bourget ^^^^ '- - - - - - - ■-- -'

Vj ^^^^ *'

aifess^ ^^^^^^ Bondy f

\^ Chelles «■»._,■» ^B,#«-fc"*':^Couilly

Pj^RISlNeuilly-sur-Marne ^w** Lagny

I •*'^

Itinerary of tho journey.

Altornafo Koiitcs (seo p. 18).

liouiidary lines of the w.:\y iiisrrt< .1 lu t.vei n p. 82 and 83.

Bounilary lini .s of the iiia;i iiiserteil Ixt.vccn ii. 08 .and C9.

TOURIST SKCTIOX

18 Pr.AC.TlCAI. IM ()n:\IATION

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

ITINERARY FOR MOTORISTS AND IVIOTORCYCLISTS

(Si'e nuip pa,LJ;c ICi.)

This lour is cotniJiiscd in tlic section Paris - Xord of the Michcliii map
ScalclpiOO.OOO Ih {see scale of kilonidrcs on Frcncli map).

The circuit is ;il)out 238 km. and can be covered in two days :

1st. day. — Leaving Paris in tlie morning tliruugli the Porte dc la (^ha-
pelle by N. 1 wc cross Saint-Denis, then passing Pierrcfitte turn to the right
by N. 10 wliich leads straight to Chantilly {'.i\ km. from the gates of Paris)
through Ecouen, Le Mesnil-Aubry and Luzarchcs.

We visit the town {sec ]>. 22-36). Lunch either at Chantilly (palatial
hotel) or at Senlis (good hotel) 9 km. from Chantilly. Afternoon, visit
Senlis (/;. :i'J-67); dine and sleep at Senlis or Chantilly.

TonrisLs who wish to see the whole of llie Caslie and park of C.hantillij must
clioose a Thursday, Saturday or Sunday (see p. 31) and devote a part oj the
afternoon to this I'isil.

2nd. day. — Leave Senlis or Chantilly in llie uiorning and reach INIcaux
by the route given p. ()8-75. The distance from Senlis is ()5 km. (by the
direct route only 37 km.). Lunch at MeauK (good hotel).

Afternoon — the tour of the Ourcq as indicated on p. 81-1 18. This tour
may be increased from .'33 to ',)2 km., according to the time the traveller has
at his disposal or the speed of his car.

Dinner either at Meaux or in Paris, reaching the latter by X. 3 (38 km.)
passing through Claj'e, Villeparisis and Bondy.

Alternate routes. — Tourists who consider the second day's distance
too great, as planned above, can leave Senlis in the afternoon and thus dine
and sleep at Meaux on the flrst day. They can visit Meaux in the morning
of the second day, lunch there and make the tour of the Ourc([ in the after-
noon, returning for dinner to Meaux or to Paris.

If one cannot dispose of two consecutive days, the visit to Meaux and
the tour of the Ourcq can be made in one day, going by N. 34 to Couilly,
through Ghefles and Lagny, then by N. 3() to Meaux and returning from
Meaux to Paris by N. 3, via Claye, Villeparisis and Bondy. Some other day
(Thursday, Saturday or Sunday) one can see Senlis and Chantilly, going by
N. 17, from Paris to Senlis via Le Bourget, Louvres, La (^hapelle-cn-Serval,
Pontarm^, and returning by N. 16 from Chantilly through licoucn, Luzar-
ches, Le Mesnil-Aubry, then by X. 1 through Pierrcfitte and Saint-Denis.

ROUTE FOR CYCLISTS

Enthusiastic cyclists can make the tour indicated above, calculating the
number of days according to tiieir average mileage. They can also break
their journey by hrst visiting Senlis and Chantilly, either cycling or going
by rail (gare du Xord), choosing, if possible, a Thursday or a Sunday.
Senlis can be seen in the morning, Chantilly in the afternoon and the return
to Paris made by an evening train. On another day one can go to Meaux
in the nnrning (gare de I'Est), make the partial or the entire tour of the
Ourcq, return to dinner at Meaux and reach Paris by an evening train.

Important note.

l''or details concerning hotels and garages sec inside of covrr (front
half)

VISrr TO THE LOCALITIES

ill which wtTc- enacted the })reliiiiiiiary sceues of the

BATTLE OE THE OURCQ

iVuiu the ist to the 5tli September, i <j i t

CHANTILLY

.""^ ^^^^^^kn^^^^H^^I^^H

«i ^iBBIt^"*'

'Photo by Andre Schclc/icr

GENERAL VIEW OF CHAXTILLY

iPhotn by Andre Schelchen

GENERAL VIEW OF THE CASTLE

CHANTILLY

(See luaj) on i)recc(lin;_' ])a£^e.)

SIGHTS \A/ORTH SEEING

Headquarters of General Joffre (/). 22-2:',). the Castle, Conde Miiseum,

Park (/). 24-:;H).

ORIGIN AND mAiN HISTORICAL FACTS

Chantilly derives its name from that of the Gallo-Roman Canlilhis, who
was the first to establish himself in the locality. The Castle (a fortress
during the Middle Ages) jjassed to the family of Montmorency in the xvth
Century and in the xviilh to that of Conde. These two illustrious families
brought Chantilly to a height of sjilendour which made it a rival of the
royal residences.

In 1830 the due d'Aumale succeeded the last of the Condes and at his
death (1897) bequeathed the domain, with the Conde Museum, which he had
installed in the Castle (see p. 21-36), to the " Institut de France '.

The town itself, built in the xviith Century, was for a long time
dependent on the Castle. In our day it has become a big centre for horse
training and racing. The great race meetings in ;\Iay. July and September
attract huge crowds.

CHANTILLY IN 1914-1916

The Germans, coming from Creil, entered Chantilly on the 3rd of Sep-
tember 1914 and occupied it for several days. The Mayor was at once
seized as hostage but did not suffer the same tragic fate as the Mayor of
Senlis. The troops were billeted at the Castle (.sec p.. 28).

After the victory of the Marne, Chantilly became the seat of General
Joffre's hcadcjuartcrs and remained so until the end of 191().

ITINERARY RECOMMENDED FOR VISITING CHANTILLY

Arriving by the Paris road, the tourist ivill pass under the raihvay bridge,
then 600 yds. further on turn to the right and come out on to the " Pelouse" (iMwn).
Turning round the Grand Comle Hotel on its left, he folloirs the Boulevard
d' Aumale as far as the Maison de Joffre, sfioirn in the photograph below.

JOFFRE

LEAVING

GEN'ER.^L

HEADQUARTERS

flMANTH.I.Y

.lolIrL- li\ecl lierc until he was made ^Marshal of France.

The hundreds of officers and secretaries employed in the tremendous
work incumbent on the Generalissimo were lodged in the Grand Conde hotel,
near which the tourist has just passed. In contrast with this buzzing hive,
.Jolfre"s house seemed the embodiment of silence and meditation.

Only two orderly ofTicers lived with the Generalissimo and his door was
strictly forbidden to all unsuiumoned visitors, whoever they might be.

On leaving his office JofTre had the daily relaxation of a walk in the
forest near by. It was thanks to the strict routine he subjected himself
lo that the Generalissimo was able to carry the crushing weight of his
responsibility without faltering. \Ve shall see. however, when comparing
the peace time photograph given on p. I with that of p. 22 that these
years of war have counted as double.

During tlie tragic liours of the .Marne the General Headquarters were
lirst at Bar-sur-Aube and then at Romilly. The commander-in-chief's
intense concentration of mind made him dumb and as though absent in the
midst of his colleagues, who received all his orders in writing. In a few
days his hair and moustache became ])erfectly white.

The Allies' grand councils of war were held in this house, which has
counted among its guests all the great actors of the war.

The military functions were held on the L.awn. The above photograjjh
was taken duriiig a review.

Af'icr hoi'ing srcn Jo/ [re's liniise we p( ss Uw jfw villas iphich sepaialc it
I'rom the rue d' Aiimale and bear lo the ru/hl. skirtiiKj the Lawn; ive turn lo
the left into the Avenue de Conde. then lo the ritjhl info the rue du C.onnelable.
In front of the "Grandes Kcuries" (great staliles). which border the extreme
end of the road on the right, stands the e(|uestrian statue of the due d'Au-
nuile. by Gerome (t899).

Leavinij the Chureh we turn to the right, passing through the Monumental
gateway, and go towards the Caslle. On the lawn (still keeping to the right)
we come to the principal facade of the ''Gpandeo Ecuries". Jean Auberfs
chef-d'oeuvre, built between 1719 and 171(1. '1 hey are seen on the right of
the above photograph.

On the opi)osite side of the l.awn stands a lillle Gliapel. erected in 1535,
by the High Constable Anne de ^lontmorency, at the same time as six others
(lotted here and there about Chantilly, in memory of the seven churches
of Flome which he had visited in order to obtain the indulgences pertaining
to this pilgrimage. He obtained the same grant from the Pope for the
chapels of (2hantilly.

Of these only two now remain, that on the Lawn — Sainte-Croix, and
another in tlie park - Saint-Paul.

chant:!. I.Y

l,ml(; C-sllc ClKij.ul Ci.-ll

CASTI.K
or CHANTIl-I-T

The above pliotos^raph gives a \ie\v of I he whole of the Castle. The Little
Castle dates from the xvith cenlury ; the bi.i> Castle is the work of a contem-
porary architect, Daumet, who erected it on the basement of the old dwel-
ling, demolished during the P>evolution. The Castle of Enghien, built
in the xviiith century is now occupied by the guardians entrusted with its
preservation. The water surrounding the Castle teems with centenarian
carp. One can get bread from the concierge and, on throwing a few crumbs
into the moat, which passes beneath the entrance bridge, watch the onrush
of the huge fish, as shown in the photograph below.

In the pages which follow we give a short historical account of the Castle,
referring the tourist for further details to the extremely interesting work
of the Curator, Mr. Gustave JNIacon : Chanlilly and the Conde Miiseiint.

CIIANTILLY

SHORT Historical account of the castle

In the Roman epoch Chanlilly was the dwelUng place of Cantihus. In
the Middle Ages it became a fortress belonging to the " Bouteiller " (cup-
bearers\ so named because of their hereditary functions at the court of the
Capets. (The " bouteiller de France ", originally in charge of tlie king's
cellars, became one of the greatest counsellors of the Crown).

The castle then became the property of the d'Orgemonts who rebuilt it in
tlie xivth century. In the xvth century it passed to the Montmorency
Inini'y. Towards 1528 the High Constable Anne de Montmorency had it
transformed by Pierre Chambiges. Chambiges' work no longer exists in
Chantiliy but the tourist will be able to judge of his talent when he sees the
lieautiful facades of the transept of the cathedral of Senlis (p. 59). The
little castle was built thirty years later by .lean Bullant. From that time
Chantiliy has been famous. iM-ancis I often stayed there. Charles V declared
that he would give one of his Low Country provinces for such a residence.
Henry IV asked his " compere ", the High Constable Henri, to exchange it
for any on.e of his royal castles. Montmorency, much embarrassed, extrica-
ted himself from this awkward situation by answering " Sire, the house is
yours, only let me be the lodge-keeper ".

Hen'i H of Montmorency, drawn into a revolt against Richelieu, died on
the scalVold in 1632. His property was confiscated and Louis XHI, attracted
by the hunting at Chantiliy. kept the place for his personal use.

It was there that he drew up with his own hand the " communique " to the
press, concerning the taking of Corbie (1636) : " The king received neivs, at 4
(/clock Ihis morninr/, of the surrender of Corbie. He immediately went to
church to give thanks to God, then ordered all to be ready by 2 o'clock to sing
the Te Deum, the queen and everyone else to be present, and ordered des-
patches to be sent commanding llmnksgiuing services in at! the churches of this
kingdom. "

In 1643, the queen, Anne of Austria, wishing to make some recognition for
the splendid victories won by the due d'Enghien (the future " Grand Conde ")
gave Chantiliy back to his mother, Charlotte de Montmorency. The latter,
married at fifteen, had deen obliged to leave France with her young husband
in 1609, to escape from the attentions of Henri IV, still gallant despite his
lifty-six years.

A gay life began again in Chantiliy, interrupted in 1650 by the revolt of
Conde. his exile and the confiscation of the domain, which then returned to
Louis XIV until the Treaty of the Pyrenees (1659). The prince then came
into his own again, but for long kept aloof from public affairs and devoted
liimsclf to the embellishment of Chantiliy with the same ardour and mas'.ery
that he formerly gave to military operations.

THE CASTLf

IN" THE

XVm H CENTIHY

ClIAXTII I.Y

In 16G2, the transformation of the park and forest was placed in the
lunuls of the .areat architect, i.e Notre. The work conlinued until 1()84.
Ihe result was a master[)icce, of which a i^reat part is still in existence, but
of which the finest features (particularly the Great (Cascades which for-
merly spread over the ])resent site of the town), disappeared durini^ the
Revolution. Below, we give a view of these " jeux d'eau ", (fountains)
which were considered one of the wonders of the day.

In 1071, Louis XIV spent three days at Chantilly, with all his court. ^lar-
vellous festivities were held on this occasion. The guests of the castle alone
tilled sixty large tables; all the adjoining villages were full of officers and
courtiers, boarded and lodged at the prince's expense. In one of her letters,
M'"*! de Sevigne tells of the tragic death of the superintendent, Vatel, who
had the rcs])onsibility of this vast organisation Desperate at the thought
that hsh woulfl be lacking at the king's table, he W'cnt up to his room, leant
his sword against the wall and transfixed himself upon it.

All the great men of the xviith century visited Chantilly. Bossuet, the
intimate friend of the great Coiule, presented to him Fenelon and La
Bruyere, who became tutor to the Prince of Conde's grandson. Moliere
and his company came to play. (Conde was his ]iatron, by whose inter-
vention the production of Tartii/e was allowed.) IJoileau, Hacine and La
Fontaine were habitual guests.

The development of Chantillx continued under Conde's successors. The
castle was modified by ^Nlansart. The due de Bourbon caused the "Grandes
Ecuries" to be built by Jean Aubert. ffe established the manufacture of
porcelain there, (this disappeared in 187(1), the remaining pieces of which
are greatly sought after in our day.

In 1722, Louis XV stayed at Chantilly on his way back from his coronation
at Reims. The festivities lasted four days; (iO.ddO bottles of wine and
55.000 lbs of meat were consumed.

It was Prince Louis-.Joseph who saw the Revolution. He had spent enor-
mous sums in embellishing Chantilly, besides the 25 million francs which it cost
him to build the Palais-Bourbon in Paris, the present seat of the Chamber
of Deputies. He erected the castle of Enghien, named after his grandson,
the due d'l-jighien, who was the first to inhabit it. (Early marriages were
usual in these great families : at the birth of the due dT-;nghien his father
was sixteen years old and his grandfather thirty-six.) The due d'l^nghien
died in 1801. shot in the moat of Vincennes.

The English garden and the Hamlet arc duv Louis-. [osejjh.

CHANTH.LY

CIIAXTILLY

In 1789, after the prince of Condc' had gone into exile, the Parisians came
and removed the cannon from the castle (see reproduction of engraving
below, in which the castle appears as altered by Mansart). Thirty guns
taken from the enemy during the Seven Years'War, which were never used
except for hring salutes during fetes, were brought in triumph to the Hotel
de Ville in Paris, whence La Fayette had them sent to the Arsenal.

The great cascades, the JNIenageric, the Orangery and the Theatre disappeared
during the revolutionary era.

Of the great castle nothing I'emained but the basement. The town grew
and encroached on the park.

In 1814, the prince de Conde returned to Chantilly and commenced the
restoration of the domain, a work continued by his son. This latter came to
a tragic end in 1830; he was found hanging from the fastening of a window
in his castle of Saint-Leu. With him died the great family of Conde.

In his will he bequeathed Chantilly to one of his greal-nephews : Henri of
Orleans, duke of Aumale, lifth son of King Louis-Philippe. After distinguish-
ing himself in the Algerian campaign, where he carried off the Smalah of
Abd-cl-Kadcr in 1843, the due d'Aumale was exiled in 1848. He established
himself at Orleans House, at 4"wickenham, near London, where he remained
until 1871. It was during that time that he began the s])lendid collections
wdiich later went to enrich the Conde Museum. On his return to France he
presided at the tribunal entrusted with the trial of .Marshal Bazainc.

In order to house his collections, the due d'Aumale had the big castle
rebuilt on i)lans made by the architect Daumet, from 1875 to 1882.

He died in 1897, bequeathing to the '-Institut de France" the domain of
Chantilly and the Conde Museum, of which he was the founder.

The Castle in 1914

Aboiit 500 Germans stayed at the castle for 24 hours. These reserve
troops had not yet fought and did not take part in the battle. They commit-
ted no excesses during their short stay. The great moral firmness shown by
the curators. Messrs. Elie Berger and Macon had great influence on the
conduct of the German soldiers. The troops were lodged in the big castle.
The ofTicers established themselves in the various suites of the small castle.

THE PARISI.^XS
AT CHASTILLY

IX 17S9

ClIANTILLY

The curators luul sent the gems of the collection to Paris and sheltered as
many of the works of art as possible in the basement. This proceeding
caused some ill humour on the part of the German officer in conmiand. As
seen in the above photograph, straw was spread in the rooms of the Museum,
on which the Germans slept. At the end of the room Chapu's touching
Jeanne d'Arc overlooks the scene of desolation. The Germans were much
impressed by the copy of the due d'Aumale's tomb in the Museum, where
he is represented in the uniform of a divisional general. Many gave the
military salute when crossing the room. However, this did not prevent the
commandant from warning the curators that if the troops were fired on,
the castle would be burnt and they themselves shot.

CHANTILI.Y

Sylvie's House

Ij Ibc lourisl makes litis journc!/ dr a daij when the castle is closed, or ij be
has not time to risil il, h' will at least be able to glance atjiw charming
corner of the pari; where stands Si/lvie's House. He need only take the palb oj
Avilhj (it is the road which is on the right of the main entrance) and skirt the
park railings. After five minutes' walk he will reach the place from where the
view below is taken. He will return to the gales by the same road.

This little shooting lodge, at first (-ailed the •' Park House ", was built
in 1604 by the High Constable Henri de ;\Iontniorency for King Henri IV.

Sylvie is the poetical name given bj^ Theophile de Viau to his patroness
Marie Felicie Orsini, who in 1(512, at the age of fourteen, married Henri II
of Montmorency, aged sixteen. The poet, Theophile de Viau, persecuted
in 1623 for the licentious publication of the Parnasse Satirigue, was given
shelter at Chantilly and lodged in the Park House.

Condenuied to be burnt alive, he was only executed in elTigy, through the
intervention of the Montmorencys.

In his Odes to the House of Sylvie, he extolled the grace and goodness of
the young duchess :

3Ies vers proinetteiit a Hylvio

Ci' l)niif charinour qup les ucvciix

Xoiniiient uuc scconde vie...

The wish expressed by the poet in these lines was fulfilled and the name
of Sylvie became attached to the house and park surrounding it. The great
C.onde rebuilt the house as it is to-day. (The rotunda seen in the photo-
graph below was added by the due d'Aumale.)

In the xviiith century Sylvie's House was the scene of the romance of
Wile de Clermont and Louis de .Alelun. The head of the house of IMontmo-
rency objected to the marriage of his sister, [Nllle de Clermont, with this noble-
man, whose rank he considered insufficient. The young girl disregarded this
and made a secret marriage, soon ended by the tragic death of Louis de
Melun, wiio was killed by a stag at bay in the course of a battue in Sylvie's
park. These various episodes in the history of Sylvie's House are recalled
in the paintings of Luc-Olivier INIerson, installed by the due d'Aumale when
he turned the old house into a .Museum.

SYLVIE s Horst

AMJ I HE PARK

CHAN TILI.V

Visit to the Cas«l3

The Castlk, Sylvik's Housf., the Jeu de Pau.me and I he 'Grandes-Ecu-
Hii.s" arc open to the public from the loth of April to the 14lh of October :

1. On Sundays, Thursdays and Icijal holidays, from 1 to 5 p. m. free ;

2. On Saturdays, the same hours, one franc charycd for each visitor.
The Park is open to the public cdl the year round on Thursdays, Sundays

and h'didays. from 1 to 6 p. m.. from tlie loth of April to the 14th October, and
till 4 p. m. for the rest of the year.

The Condc .Museum is extremely inleresUiia.

IAN Ol CAMLE

I Kntraiioo.

:; (Inui.l vp^iiliuli-.

3 Gallery of the Stags.

4 Picture Gallery.

5 Itotinida of tlif Jliisi-um

'Sciilis TowiT .
li Vcsiiliiil.- of tlic iluvoiuii.
7 Gallery of the house.
« Small < iallcry of tholioiisr.

II Vi-siil)ulc of house.
1(1 TIji- Siiialali.

11 Th.' .Minerva Tower

\Tower of the lli-h
Constable '.

12 The .Viitiquity Uooiii.

13 Giotto room.

14 Isa belle room.

15 Orleans room.
\C, Carolin. r..,,i]i.

17 Clouet room.

18 Psyche's Gallery.

19 Santuaro.

20 Treasure Tower.

Jl Th.- Triliiui.'.

•J2 Tlie antiTooiii.

•J'.'i ( iiianlrooni.
24 La Chambre.

I'.'i Thf liP-at >liiily.

26 The monkey parlour.

27 The Prince's gallery.

:-S Library.

2;i (ireat staircase.

■M> (iallery of the C'hai.el.

31 Chapel.

X Statue of the Higli Con-
stable.

H Entrance portcnllis).

C Court of honour.

1) Court of the little ca.stle.

K Flower garden of the
.\viary.

CIIANTlI.l.Y

IV'e adoise tourists to obtain lire guide book sold at lite entrance, iidiieli gives
all uieful inlormation for ttie details of tlie visit. The jjlan on p. -31 mal<es
it easy to find one's ivaij about tlie Museum. Bij follounng the numbering in
tliis plan ilic various rooms will be seen in llie order in ivhirh tlwij arc marlxcd
in the guide book.

The several photographs which follow can give but a faint idea of the
richness and interest of the collections made by the due d'Aumale.

The following view shows the gallery of the Stags, formerly the dining
room.

GALI.ERV
OF THE STAfiS

The next picture represents the magnificent carved and inlaid chest
(the work of Riesener, the great cabinet-maker), which stands in room 24 on
plan p. 31.

CHEST
nv RIESENER

CHANTILLY

The due d'Aumale gathered the gems of his collection together in the
room that he named the "Santuario" (No 19 on plan p. 31).

They are : The Virgin by Raphael, described as "of the House of
Orleans"', having belonged to that family for a very long time. This little
panel, painted about the year lodG. was bought for IfiO.oon francs in 1869.
It is reproduced below.

The Three Graces, another small i)ancl painted by Hapharl at about
the same time as The Virgin, bought for 625.000 francs in 188.3.

Esther and Ahasl-erus. panel of a marriage chest. (.'xiTUlcd I'V Filip-
piiio Lippi: bought for S'i.OOO francs in 1892.

Forty ^Miniatures by Jclian Fouqiict, taken from Ihe Ihiak cf Ildiirs,
i)v Kstienne Chevalier. This leading work of the French school of the
xvth century was acquired for the sum of 250.000 francs in 1891.

We must also mention th? collection of portraits painted or drawn in the
xvth and xvith centuries, divided between the Gallery of the House
(7 on plan), the Clouet room (17 on j>lan) and the Gallery of Psyche (18 on
plan). In the Gallery of Psyche, the visitor will notice, besides the pic-
lures, the forty-four xvith century windows, representing the legend of
Cupid and Psyche. There is also a cast of the head of Henri IV.

Lovers of jewels should visit the treasure tower (20 on plan). In the Mon-
key Parlour (26 on ])lan) will be seen the screen painted by Huet, repre-
sentiig the Monkeys' reading lesson, and on the panels a charming xviiith
century decoration, attributed to the same painter.

In the Prince's Gallery (27 on plan) the great Conde had a series of
])icli!res ])ainted representing the battles he had fought.

In the trophy containing liis sword and pistols there is also a flag taken
in tlie battle of
Uocroi in 1 643.
It is the oldest
standard captured
from the e n e in y
that exists in
I'rance.

In the middle of
tlie gallery stands
liie Table of the
Vine-stock, carved
out of one piece
taken from an
enormous vine, for
the Connetable dc
Montmorency.

In the modern
chapel (31 on plan).
the due d'Aumale
placed a beautiful
altar, carved by
Jean Goujon, also
some xvith cen-
tury wainscoting
and stained glass
w i n d o w s taken
frrnn the Chapel
of the Castle of
Fcouen.

In the apse
s'ands the funeral
urn which holds
llie hearts of the
princes of the
House of Conde.

THF. VIRGIN
OF ORLEANS
BY RAPH.\EL

CHANTILLY

Visit to the Park

This takes from three quarters oj an hour to an liour and a quarter.

On eoining out < J th' Museum, we cross tlie Terrasse du Conne'table, in the
middle of which stands the equestrian statue of Anne de Montmorency,
by Paul I)ul)ois (1886). Leavinq the Chateau d' Hnghien en the right ire enter
the Covered Way by the arenue which passes before the little chapel of Saint-
Paul. Saint-Paul and Saiate Croix arc all that remain of the seven chapels
erected by Anne de Montmorency {se.' p. 23). A little further on, on the left,
we come to the Cabotiere, a building dating from the time of Louis XIII.
It derives its name from that of the barrister Caboud. an enthusiastic ama-
teur horticulturist, who made a inagnifu'ent flower garden in the jnirk for
the great Coiide.

: •■ r 'Y

1 Hi: HAMI.ET

ClIANTILLY

:j5

The avenue ends at Sylvie's House (sec p. 30). In the interior can be
seen paintings, tapestries, pieces of furniture and beautiful panelling of the
xN'iith century, which have been i)laced in the rotunda. From Sylvie's
House there is a lovely view of the pond and the park (.see p. 30).

Leaving Sylvie's House on the right we walk about 150 yds. down the path
which skirts it, then turn to the left and follow the j)ath which leads straiglit to
the Ha]\ilet (view on />. 34).

The Hamlet, which recalls that of the Petit Trianon at Versailles, dates
from 1775. At this period, under the influence of J. -J. Rousseau's works,
nature and country life became the fashion and it was the correct thing
for princes to play at jieasants in miniature villages.

An author of the xviiith century thus describes the Hamlet of Chantilly :
" Seven detached houses, placed without order, with thatched roofs, stand
in the middle of a lawn that is always green. Here is an ancient elm, there
a well; further on a fence encloses a garden planted with vegetables and
fruit-frees; a mill, its wheel turned by the brook; in front a stable, a
dairy; one house is used as the kitchen, another is the dining-room, so
decorated as to resemble a hunting lodge : one fancies one's self in the
middle of a thick wood, tl e seats imitate tree-trunks, green couches and
clusters of flowers rise from the ground; a few openings made between the
branches of the trees admit the light. A third cottage serves as billiard-
room, a fourth is a library. The barn makes a large and splendid drawing-
room.

From the time when the Hamlet came into being, there was never a big
fete at Chantilly without a supper in this pretty corner of the park. Innu-
merable " ])ots de feu " illuminated the thickets; on the canal the guests
drifted in gondolas to strains of dreamy music; fancy-dress fetes were held,
and the singing and dancing continued until dawn.

The Hamlet is now greatly fallen into decay, nevertheless it is worth a
visit.

Hetraeing our steps we hear to the lejl (uvl, having crossed the first bridge,
follow a pretty path which brings us into the flower garden of Le Notre, where
we get a good view of the castle (see below). One can get straight back to
tlie erdrance gates bg the staircase shoivn in the view. It is called the Grand
Dhorh (great stair). It was built in 1(182 by the architect Gitard. The
groujis which adorn the base of the Terrasse du Connetable, on each side
of the stairs, were drawn by Le Notre and carved by Hardy.

This walk, from the time of leaving tlir Museum until the return to the
entrance gales, takes about three quarters of an hour.

THE CASTLE
SEKN FROM
THK FI.OWEH
GARDENS

CllANTILLY TO SENLIS

// one wishes to visit the English garden and the Jeu de Paume, which
will take about 40 minutes longer, one must walk past the north front of the
Castle and follow the walk which opens in the middle of the thickets.

The English garden was laid out in 1817 to 1819 by the architect Victor
Dubois, according to the orders of the last of the Condes, just returned
from exile. The site occupied by this garden, like the ground on which
stands the town of Chantilly, belonged to the ancient park, devastated
during the Revolution.

We pass near the Temple of Venus, which shelters a Venus Callipyge
of the xviith century, near the Island of Love, which dates from 17G5 and
on which are statues of Aphrodite and Eros. In the xviiith century
the Island of Love contained a luxurious pavilion, in which nocturnal
fetes were held, the canals and park being illuminated. The pavilion disap-
peared at the time of the Revolution.

The ancient Cascades of Beauvais that one sees before arriving at the
Jeu de Paume are remnants of the old park. They were the work of Le
Notre.

The Jeu de Paume, constructed in 1757, is transformed into a museum.
It contains various curiosities, notably Abd-el-Kader's tent, which was
carried awav when the Smalah was captured by the due d'Aumalc, in
1843.

After 3 p. m. one can leave the park by the gate next to the Jeu de Paume.
One comes out in front of the "Grandes Ecuries" of the castle and can go
in and look round them. (Enter at the side that faces the Lawn).

FROm CHANTILUY TO SENLIS (9 km

Ih'lurning through the monumci}t(d gateway, we cross the rue du Connctable
and go straight on, skirting the Castle i)ark on the rigid. We cross the Saint-
Jean caned, then the great caned, tlien turn to the rigid into the high street of
Vineuil. On the riglit one soon has a beautiful vista of the Castle and Park
(view below).

We now go through Saint-Firmin. The church, on the left, contains in
its choir Renaissance windows which are classed as historical monuments.

From Saint-Firmin to Senlis the road is easy. We enter Senlis by the
Creil gate {see plan inserted between p. 38-39). Turn to the left by the
Avenue Vernois and the line of boulevards lo reach tl\e station, where starts
the itinerary described further on, in Senlis.

THE CASILL

SEEN FROM THE

ROUTE

DE VINEVII.

W-'^: .

'M^^^^^^^

jBa?^A

-^^^^^^^^1

C',- S^

«»..

^....

1 -^r^H

T^i^^rastiJi

' '-"fitSBi

mt :... <^^^^|

,^---i.-

^__ _ _

—

Tr--^.,>- -^H^^^^^B

i|'"-' ^

■H

^^^^^^^H

■

^^H

^^^^^H

■-.I' :^y.J>-'-

■H

1^1

■

jjJH

HHI^Hh

SENLIS

;5S

GENERAL VIEW OF SENLIS

SENLIS

ITS ORIGIN AND CHIEF HISTORICAL EVENTS

Seiilis is of ("lallic oriL'in; it was the capital of the Siilvaneclcs. The
Romans surrounded it with fortifications, a great part of which still exist
{see p. 64).

The first kings of France, attracted by the hunting in the surrounding
country, frequently stayed at Senlis.

It was in Senlis castle {see p. 6-i) that Hugues Capet was elected king by
the assembly of lords in 987.

The Capetians often returned to the birth-place of their dynasty and it
is to them that the town owes its chief buildings.

Taken by the peasants in the war of the Jacquerie in 1358, besieged by
the Armagnacs in 1418, it fell into the hands of the English and was de-
livered by Joan of Arc in 1429; Senlis knew great vicissitudes in the xivth
and xvth centuries.

After Henri IV, who interested himself greatly in Senlis and lived in its
old castle, the kings of I'rance gradually forsook the town in favour of
Compiegne, Fontainebleau ami Versailles.

Occupied in 1871 by the Germans, it reappears in History in September
1914. The battles around Senlis have been shown in p. ()-7. The burn-
ing of the town and the summary executions which took jilace there will
be recalled in the course of the visit (p. 40-54).

-.IM IS

IN I Hi: WITH

C t M I HV

WHAT SHOULD BE SEEN

Do not miss : The Ruins of the war (p. 40-54), the Cathedral p. {55-61).

Of great interest : The C.\sti.e (p. 63-65), Saint-Frambourg (p. 62),
Saint-Pierre (p. 62), the Ramparts (p. 53), the Arena (p. 67), Saint-
Vincent.

4 0

ITINERARY RECOMMENDED FOR THE VISIT TO SENLIS

(S''e map 'iiiUTcalalcMl belwueii p. 38-39)

THE BURNT
STATION

about 3 o'clock in the al'tciiioon.

At the Station
one gets one's first
view of the havoc
done to the town
by the events of
September 1914,
It was set on fire
on the 3rd.

I-'(ill(iii> (he station
road (T avenue de la
gave), ivhich leads
to the Compiegne
gate.

This is the road
by whicli the Ger-
mans entered Sen-
lis, on tlie 2nd of
September, at

BRJ 1 IM

SOJ.Dll K

IN THE I'l Ai 1

LIE LA (.Alll

(ill Sept. mil

INTl'.Rlnn

1 HE BrUNT

ST.\'l KIN

Whilst one part
of the advance
guard made the
tour of the town,
following the
boulevards and the
ramparts which
encircle it, other
groups descended
directly south by
the two main
streets which
cross Senlis, thus
making sure of a
thorough explora-
tion.

1 XTRASCE
TO THE RUE
DE LA
REPUBI.IQUE
BEFORE
THE WAR

?A*^%rf*^

The entrance to the ruk de la Ricpubi.ique sufTered a preat deal, as
is shown by the two photographs, taken before and after the fire of Sep-
tember 2nd.

On the left, the toll-house is completely burnt down: in the centre, the
hotel du Xord and
the restaurant En-
causse are in ruins.

Tlie building on
the right is the Gen-
darmerie.

The German pri-
soners who appear
in the picture op-
posite are leaning
against the wall of
these barracks.

They were the
few soldiers who
remained in Senlis
after the victory of
the Ourcq. They
were captured by Zouaves sent from Paris by motor-car.

Only a few years ago the rue de la Republique was called the rue Neuve-
de-Paris, although it dated from 1753. It was made in order to spare the
Court of Louis XVth the circuitous way and steep ascent of th.c old road,
which followed the rue Vieille-de-Paris and the rue du Chatcl.

PRISONERS
IN KRONT
OF THE
GENDARNtERIE

Sept. v.n-i)

ENTRANCE
TO THE RIE
DE LA
REPIBLIQUE
AFTER
THE FiRL

SFA'I.IS

GERMAN CVCl.JSl
AT THK

i:ntranci:

TO TH1-.
rit: bki.i.on

Drscenditig the
riiede la Re])ubliqiie
we come to the rue
Bellon, which cross-
es it. We tarn to
the ri(/ht, at the place
shown on the oppo-
site ]>hoto(jraphand
a jew steps further
on reach the Car-

R 7i I' O U R D E LA

LicoRNK. This is
one of t li e most
devastated places
of ihe towi-. The
first \ic\v was lai<eii
durin'j; the German
occuration, u Oer-

i< I ■ I.

U Gl' MAII.I.K

(111 i:)M)

AKllI 1(11 R

man cyclist being
snapshotted while
riding-. The
other \iews show
lliL' state of the
ruins in 1911 and
the ]iresent condi-
tion.

\l'(' return to the
rue de la Republi-
(/ue. A few yards
down, on the right,
we see the charred
house, the gable-
end of which ap-
pears in the view on
the following page.

\Vc next reach the lend of thr
Hotel du Grand Cerf, oj which the
si(jnbonrd is seen on the view below.
The German Headquarters Stall"
stayed there, and that is no doubt
the reason for its remaininj^ intact.
T. e Mayor of Senlis, I\I. Odent.
was taken there on the 2nd of
September after his arrest at tlie
Town -hall, just before beinu
taken to Chamant to be shot.
The proprietor of tlie hotel havinij;
left the town, the German ollicers
commandeered a restaurant keejier
and made him prepare a meal for
thirty people, with ' ices and
champagne '".

kssiH

^-^.^'^"^^pi^ [ ' ' ' ff fiitttSilHjB^R^^HBK^^B

BURNT HOUSE
RUI. DK l.\
Kl'pUBI.lyUK

1 IRK

RUI' 1)1 1 A

Kl'lM KI.IOI Iv

The houses
which face the ho-
tel, and which were
still burning when
the above photo-
graph was taken,
are those of the local
.Justice of the Peace
and Public Notary.

Looking through
the entrance gates
of the latter resi -
dence, one beholds
the scene of deso-
lation reproduced
in the opposite pict-
ure.

RUINS OI THE
PUBLIC NOIAHV"
HDUM-:

liL KM

COURT

OF JUSTICE

On the left of the
vac dc la liepubliqiie
we come to a build-
ing which served
as tlie sub-prefect's
office and Court
OF Justice. This
Luilding, formerly
a hospital, dates
from the be£,'inniiig
of the xviiith cen-
tury.

The work of the
inceiuliaries is seen
by comparing the
opposite view with
that given below.

All the ruins
already pointed out, as well as those that will be seen further on, were made
systematically.

The soldiers to whom this work was assigricd arrived in columns: at the

ItU] 111
I.A Rl'puiil.lnUI

(s,.pt. v.ny

COURT

(IF JUSTICE

BEFORE

THE WAR

sound of an officer's whistle a certain nundjer of men left tire ranks and
smashed in the doors of the houses and the shop-fronts; then came others
who started the fires with grenades and fuses ; lastly the patrols who

followed fired in-
cendiary projec-
tiles into those
buildings which
did not take fire
quickly enough.

The above view
was taken during
ttie German occu-
pation. It shows
the Red Cross staff
conveying the
wounded from the
overflowing hos-
pital to the College
of Saint-Vincent

After crossing the
Xonelle one arrives
at the junction of
the I lie de l:t Repn-
blique and the rue
Yieille-de-Paris.

At the corner
stands the inn "le
Debit SnioN", of
which a view is gi-
ven below. Simon
was without doubt
tlie first victim of
tlie German occu-
pation.

In tlie middle of
t li e afternoon a
German j) a t r o 1 ,

who had just been drinlviiiy at llie nui. was sliot at by a French rear-
guard, who was seated at Simon's a few moments before.

RUINS

AT THE CORNER

OF THE

RIE DC TEMPLE

UlBll SIMIIN

(simon"s inn)

THE

PROPRIETOR
WAS KILLED
BY THE
GERMANS

The Germans immediately seized tlie innkeeper, accused him of having
fired and shot him point-blank.

Other pretended reprisals were made, causing the death of t.xenty unof-
fending civilians, of which the reader will learn the details further on. *

The view below shows the corner of the place Saint-Martin where
stands the Cafe
Simon. Two Ger-
man cyclists are
seen in the photo-
graph, which was
taken on the 4th
of September 1914.
It will be noticed
that the one on the
left has a lady's
bicycle, which cer-
tainly did not come
out of the Army
stores 1

(iiCRMAN

<;ycli>ts

PLACE
S.\1N1-MARTIN

RIUNS
FAUBOURG
<y. MARTIN

ItURNJ

KUlI.DIN(i.s

lAUBOURG

-T. MARTIN

I'ollowinii the rue da Faiihouifi St. Mailin shown above, the tourist will
pass a pretty estate (view below), the old quarters of the (iardes du Corps,

which was com-
pletely burnt and
the ruins of which
produce a startliuL;
effect.

In front are the
i leadquarters of
(lie Cavalry, partly
hurnt. Still fur-
ther on. at the exit
of the town, is the

1 loSI'ITAL.

It w;;s I here that
I lie battle raL<e(l
most liercely.

The German ad-
vance-guards, beat-
in g back the
French soldiers de-
layed in the b'aubourg St. .Martin^ were met by (he fire of the machine guns
stationed outside the town, along the road.

KyUU'MENTS

.\UANDONF.D

DURING

lilt; BATTLP;

MARKS OF
GERMAN

HILLETS IN THE
HOSPn Al,

The Germans penetrated into the hospital and llie neighbourinij gardens,
trying to outflank the French defences which they thought were placed on
the road, but a deadly Are from the transverse trenches made them fall
back. Furious at this, they seized the passers by and made them walk in
the middle of the road, they themselves keeping close to the walls.

Among the hostages were a M""" Dauchy and her young daughter. The
latter was shot in the leg. Georges Leymarie was killed; one of his compa-
nions, I.cvasseur. while carrying the body along the pavement beside the
hospital wall. sulTered the same fate. Two other hostages. Audibert and
-Minouflet, the latter wounded, had also reached the pavement of the hospi-
tal. A German ofTicer discharged a revolver at Audibert and left him for
dead; he ordered Minouflet to show his wounds and. finding them insuffi-
cient, put a bullet through his shoulder. Three other people fell. The
shrieks of the victims reached the French, who ceased fire. The surviving
hostages then slipped past the trees along the road, under German fire, up
to the French lines. The Germans took advantage of this to make a fresh
attack, but were repulsed.

The hospital, situated as it was in the midst of the fighting, was not
spared. A German officer, wounded by one of the first shots, entered the
hospital and meeting an old pensioner, M. ;\!aumus, on the threshold,
shot him down in cold blood.

The ward where the French and Moroccan wounded lay was fired on with
machine-guns, as shown in the above photograph. By a wonderful chance no
one was hit : the Crucifix also remaineil untouched in the centre of a wreath
of bullets.

The Lnirisl will now, rctracin;/ his slcps, turn In the rif/hl into the rue des
Jarcliniers, whence he will hare a ir)0(l view of the whole town. Alwaijs kcep-
infi to the left he will pass throiujh the Meaux Gale into ll\e rue de Meaux
which borders the Colt.egk of Saint-Vincent (p. C(3). (If on foot, it would
be belter to follow the line of the ramparts Bellemie and Sain'-Vincent. instead
of the rue des Jardiniers. At tin- Meaux dale lie luill <jo down tlic steps
into the rue dc Meaux).

Back in tfie rue de la Republiiiue, he will qo up as far as the rue Odent,
which skirts the hotel du Grand C.erf. By this road he will arrive at the Place
de la Halle, continued to the right by tlie rue Saint-IIilairc, which leads to the
cliunh 0/ Saint- Pierre (see p. G2).

TRACES

OF SHELI.S

ON THE

CATHEDRAL

{I'hotohij M. ][.)

DEBRIS

AT THE FOCI

OF THE

CAT HE ERA I.

TOWERS

. I' ho to Inj M. H.)

From the Place Saint-Pierre
one (joes to the left into the
attic rue GUI Flacjeards which
jiasscs in front of the north
(loonvaij of the Cathedral, of
which a view is (jivcn opposite.
The tower on the ri.^ht and
the spire were struck by sev-
eral shells.

Continuing alonn llic Place
Mauconseil and tarninr/ to the
left into the rue Villeverl one
rcaclws the charming square
wliich lies in front of the jiar-
I'is of the Cathedral.

(See p. 55-61 for descrip-
tions concerning llie artistic
features of the Cathedral).
Here ive shall onlg give
the incidents of Septcnihcr
1914 in irhich the building
shared.

During the day of llie 2nd
of September 1914, about
fifty shells struck the old
church and caused rather
serious damage^ as shown in
the following pholographs. The vicar of the Cathedral, the Abbe Dour-
lent, went about the streets of Senlis during the bombardment and had
125 inhabitants, who had been unable to find shelter in the cellars, escorted
out of the town by one of his curates. On his return to the vicarage, which
stands at the foot of the lower {the house visible in the jihotograph on
p. 56, on the right, behind the Iwu trees), shortly after the Germans had
entered the town, the vicar heard violent and re])eated blows in the
Cathedral. Coming out into the Square he saw cyclists, holding a large
fragment of a statue (which had been flung to the ground by a shell)
with which they had battered in the small door of the Cathedral (tliat on
the right in the view on p. -'jfi). Others, axes in tlicir hands, were attacking

the door of the
steeple on the
south side of
the tower. The
Germans, re-
volver in hand,
rushed at the
vicar and their
leader com-
manded him
to take them
to the top of
the steeple, ac-
cusing him of
having allowed
machine gun s
to be placed
there w h i c h
IkuI fired on
thcin.
As I hey climb-

ed the first step they heard the
first shots fired in the lower part
of the town.

Th2 soldiers spranjf up and
declared the vicar their prisoner.

The visit to the steeple con-
firmed the Abbe Dourlcnt's de-
claration that no one had been
up and that no military prepa-
rations had ever been made there.
The men drew olT, but a few mo-
ments after the porter of the
Town-hall brought the vicar the
order to render himself imme-
diately as hostage at the Grand
Cerf hotel.

When he arrived the Head-
quarters Staff had left, taking
the Mayor, who was shot that
evening.

The incendiarism had already
started ; the vicar saw incen-
diary bombs thrown into the
housesfacing the hotel, which are
shown in the photograph on
page 43. He entered the vicar-
age, then returned to the Grand Cerf to learn what fate awaited him.

It was there that a German superior officer, who spoke French, said
these few words which throw light on the events of Senlis :

^ ^ & ■'Kpt^ f/

■^42i;q

TRACES
OF SHELLS
ON THE
CATHEDRAL

Poor Cure, poor Senlis, your civilians have fired on us and we have been
shot at from the top oj ijour church tower, therefore Senlis is doomed. You
see that street in flames (the rue de la Republique), well! this night the town
itself will be completely burned
down. We have orders to make
of Senlis another Uouvain. A ter-
rible example is needed for Paris
and for the whole of France.

The vicar implored for mercy
for the town and the officer pro-
mised to intervene with his su-
periors in order to obtain a
mitigation of the sentence. Whe-
ther he gained his point or whe-
ther the giving up of the di-
rect march on Paris caused the
part of scape-goat assigned to
the peaceful little town to ap-
pear of less immediate necessity,
the incendiarism was limited to
Ihe rue de la Republique and
Ihe Quartier de la Licorne.

The tourists will visit tlie Cathe-
dral {see p. 55-61), Saint-Fram-
EouRG (p. 62), the Castle( p. 63-
65), and will then go down U\c old
rue du Chdtel.

TRACES
OF SHELLS
ON THE
CATHEDRAL

A B B 1
IL Ill.t-N 1

This road was the scene of the
outrage of 1789, famous in Hie an-
nals of Senlis. Tiie clocknialver
Billon, seeing beneath his win-
dows the company of muskeleers
from which, as usurer, he had
been dismissed, raised his musket
and killed the commandant and
several others. Trapped in his
house, he backed from room to
room still adding to the number
of his victims. At the moment
when they seized him the mine
that he had prepared exploded,
destroying his house and leaving
twenty-six dead and forty injured.
The rue du Chdtcl ends in the
Square Henri I V, in the corner of
which stands the Town-hall. Its
facade (see below), dates from
]4*)5 Above the door is the
bust of Henri IV, with an ins-
ciiption taken from the letters
patent sent by the king to Senlis
as thanks for the town's resis-
tance to the Leaguers :
" Man heur a prins son commencement en la ville de Senlis, dont il s'est

depuis seme et augmente par tout le roijaume. "

(My ijood fortune had Us beginning in the town of Senlis, whence it has

since sown itself and spread over all the kingdom.)

The Square Henri IV rectived the first shells of the bombardment which

killed a fireman on guai d at the Town-Hall.

When the Germans penetrated into Senlis, one of their superior officers

went to the Town-Hall and asked for the " burgomaster ".

TOWN HAIL

TheMayor,
M. Odent,
c a ni e f o r -
ward.

For three
genera t i o ns
the O d e n t s
had bee n
mayors of
Senlis. The
grand- father
of the present
inayordistin-
guished him-
self during
the cholera
epidemic in
1^32; his fa-
I lier was sei-
zed as hos-
l;ge in 1870
iiiid narrowly
cscapedbcing
sliot.

1,AST

PHOTOCIIAIMI
OF M. 0I:KM
in the iiiidrllo)

Oil the eve of the German occupation, M. Odent tonk his family to Paris
and on his return to Senlis wrote on a post-card to .M. Cullru, oldest
member of the municipal council, as follows :

" Having at last placed my wife in safety, I now belong entirely to Senlis. "

M. Odent had the presentiment that he would not come out of German
hands alive; a fervent Catholic, he [)crformed his religious duties in view
of a swiftly approaching death, and fastened a crucifix on his breast.

Above, we give the last photograph of M. Odent. It was taken on the
5th of August 1914, during a military fete, M. Odent is in the middle.

The mayor was violently upbraided by the officer because of the deserted
aspect of the town — barely 1.000 inhabitants remained out of 7.000, and
during the bombardment houses and shops were closed: — he was also
blamed for the absence of proclamations exhorting the inhabitants to deposit
their arms at the Town-Hail and to olTer no resistance...

.M. Odent pointed out the ra|)idity of events, and the peaceable ways of
the old city. He was nevertheless led before the headquarters staff at the
Grand Cerf hotel. Immediately after came the sound of the first shots fired
by the French rearguard at the lower end of the town. The officer was
furious and vowed that he w'oul 1 h(dd the mayor responsible and that his
head should answer for the lives of the German soldiers. 'J"he town-clerk
suggested to M. Odent that the deputy mayors should be fetched, but the
latter refused, saying : " One victim is enough. "

The resigned hostage was taken from the Grand Cerf to Chamanl^Cs^e
/). G8). He was brutally treated, his
gloves snatched from him and flung
in his face, his stick seized and brought
down violently on his head. M. Odent
and some other hostages spent several
hours of cruel waiting for their fate.
.\t last, at about 11 o'clock in the even-
ing, they were brought before several
olTicers. After having been made to
stand at attention they were ordered
to lie flat, their hands stretched for-
ward; they were then again told to
stand at attention. The ofTicers, satis-
fied that they had thus asserted their
authority, for form's sake then pro-
ceeded to interrogate the mayor and
in spite of his denial persisted in accus-
ing him of having opened fire upon
the German troops. They then inform-
ed him that he would be shot.

(;er.\ian

•-OLD1ERS
l>HOTO(iRAPHl.l>

M. ODENT S

GRAVE

AT CHAMANT

M. Odeiit returned to his companions in captivity, gave them his pa-
pers and mone>\ shook hands witli tliem and l:)ade them a dignified
farewell. He then wejnt back to the officers. At their command two soldiers
dragged him about ten yards furtlicrolTandput two bullets through his head.

The ground was hastily hollowed out and the body was laid under such a
thin layer of earth that the feet were not covered. It was here that the cross
shown in the above photograph was erected. The tourist can visit it when
passing through Chamant (see p. 68). A few hours before the mayor's death,
six other hostages had been shot and buried in the same field. M. Odent's
companions were more fortunate, they were sent back to Senlis the next
day. On the 12th September the bodies of the mayor and the six other vic-
tims were exhumed and taken to the cemetery in the town {see p. 54). Other
hostages narrowly escaped death. At about 8 o'clock in the evening, in
the tailor's shop at the corner of the rue du Chatel, in front of the town-hall,
three inhabitants were seized and taken to Chamant. To these, in the
course of the journey, were added a dozen others. They were about to
share the fate of the preceding hostages when one of them, who spoke
German, succeeded in inducing the Headquarters staff to set them free.

By the rue Vieille de Paris {a contimialion of the rue du Chatel) ive descend
to the lower part of the town. (In 1358 the "Jacques", masters of Senlis, drove
back the nobles who had entered the lower end of the road by rolling down
the slope heavily laden waggons which overturned anything that happened
to be in their way.)

In front of the old Convent of the Carmes, n° 3 of the rueVicillcde Paris, stand
Me'gret's Baths, to which a cafe' is attached. In the afternoon of September
2nd, some Germans smashed the door in and demanded drink. It was no
doubt at that time that other German soldiers entered the cafe Simon,
a little further on (see p. 45). The two proprietors suffered the same fate.
M^gret had barely finished serving the patrol with a dozen bottles of wine
when a shot, fired point-blank, felled him to the ground.

PU.l URK
IX THK
TOWN-HALI.

(Execution of

hostages
in 1418)

On page 51 apjjcars the photograph of three young German soldiers belons-
ing to that column of incendiarists and murderers who did so much damage
to Senlis. With threats they forced the photographer, M. Rozycki, to whom
we are indebted for the views taken during the German occupation, lo take
the photograph we have reproduced. ^^

A lilile way past the Convent ofjhc Carmcs (which is turned into barracks,
its chapel being used as a clothing store), ive folloiv, on (he right, the line of
ramparts that goes from the rue Vieille de Paris (where the Paris gate used
to be) to the Place de Creil (where stood the gate of the same name).

These ramparts were made in the xiiith and xivth and strengthened in the
xvth and xvith centuries.

The first portion is called le Rkmpakt des Otages in memory of the
executions of 1418, during the fight between the Burgundians, who occupied
Senlis, and the Armagnacs, who besieged it.

The town, reduced to famine, was to surrender on the IStli of April if no
help arrived and six hostages were handed over as guarantee : two abbots,
two nobles and two commoners. Helji was signalled on the day of the 18th;
but the Armagnacs, before leaving, decapitated four hostages at the foot of
the ramparts on which the tourist is standing. In return the besieged flung
down from the walls the heads of twenty prisoners captured during a sally.

Six centuries have elapsed but it will be seen that towards hostages, the
Germans still retain the mental attitude of the .Middle Ages.

A picture by Melingue (reproduced above) which hangs in the Town-Hall,
commemorates the execution of the hostages of Senlis.

The next rampart is called the Montaubax, after the square tower which
was added lo it in 1588. It was in the dry moat below that the Archer's
Company held their practice. The head of the company, the " king of the
Crossbow ", was exempted by Henri III from paying taxes and ever since
that remote period archery has always been held in honour at Senlis. At
certain fetes as many as 4.0U0 archers were assembled, part of them belonging
to the town, the others coming from the surrounding country.

From the rampart, the view of old Senlis, spread out at the foot of the
Cathedral, is particularly picturesque.

GRAVES

IN THE

Cl.METEKV

MONUMENT

OF THE

HOSTAUKS

IN 1 HE

CEMETERY

From the Creil gate, where i/au come out on leaning Ihc ramparts, the Ari:na
can be visited (see p. 67). After that, turn down the Avenne Vernois, at the end
of whieh is seen the entranee to the cenwterij. The monument raised in memory
of the hostages who were murdered in 1911 (view below) is in the western
part of the cemetery. In the northern part is the grave of the soldiers wlio
fell during the battles of Senlis (view above).

From the boulevard Pasteur which is a continuation of the Avenue Ver-
nois, there is a
— ^ jrctlii viewof the

counirij.

At the corner
of the rue Saint-
Joseph stands a
convent where
seventy nuns
remained dur-
ing the German
occupation.
Some German
soldiers made
them open the
door and de-
manded wine :
" Oh ! " answer-
edthe Reverend
Mother, "the
nuns only
drink liquorice-
water. "

The ton r i s t
now finds hinj-
self at tlie Com-
pif'gne g ale,
from where he
began his visit
to the town. Tliis
is also the start-
ing point fixed
in tlie itinerary
for the joiirnei]
to Meaux (sec
p. (iS).

ARTISTIC SENLIS

(See plan intercalated between pages 38-39)

The Cathedral of Notre Dame (historical monument)

The Cathedral was begun in 1153 on the site of a church which had been
destroyed and rebuilt several times since the Third century. The work of
construction was slow, as funds
were often lacking, despite the
help given by the kings of
France. For several consecu-
tive years collections were re-
peatedly made throughout the
country in order to obtain
resources for the bishop.

The consecration of the un-
linished church took place in
1191.

Towards 1240, the transept
was raised and the spire,
which is still the pride of Senlis,
built.

In 1504, lightning set fire
to the Cathedral, which went
on burning for two days.
Luckily the spire was saved.

The reconstruction of all the higher parts and of the facades of the tran-
sept lasted until 1560 and completely transformed the appearance of the
building.

During the Revolution it was used as a ballroom and afterwards as a
storehouse for fodder. In ISOl it became once more a place of worship.

It has been seen (p. 4S)
that the Cathedral was
not spared by the German
shells on the 2nd of Sep-
tember 1914, and that its
vicar very nearly shared
the mayor's tragic fate.

The opposite view is tak-
en from the top of the
steeple of St. Peter's
church.

In the foreground are
seen the buildings of the
old Bishop's Palace, stand-
ing on a Gallo-Roman
site ; one of the tow-
ers of this enclosure was
utilised in their construc-
tion.

After 1790 Senlis was
no longer a bishopric. An
archaeological museum is
now established in the
old dwelling place of the
bishops.

A nil DRAL

CATHEDRAI.

SEEN FROM THE

STEEPLE

OF ST. PIERRE

The west facade of the Cathedral, wliich escaped the hre of 1504, has
retained the simphcity and bareness of the xiith century church and is in
remarkable contrast with the richness of the side facades built in the xvith
century.

The great doorway, which will be fully described further on, is flanked by

PI.ACE
DU PARVIS

THE SPIBL

OF THl.

CATHEDRA I

two small doors surmounled^by a tympanum, the arcading of which forms a
curious ornamentation.

The two toweis were originally alike; it was only in the middle of the
xiiith century that the spire was added to the south tower.

This spire is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture and for nearly seven
centuries has been tlie admiration of architects and archaeologists because of
the science, audacity and solidity of its construction, which was proof against
fire, the inclemency of the weather, and German shells.

Its summit is 78 >^ ni. above the ground.

p,_ ,.,.......,. I , . „ ..^ — ^— . ---"-.^ Octagonal, it rests on the square base of

the tower.

The transition from the square to the
octagon is hidden by the four pinnacles,
(each supported by three small columns),
which occupy the four corners of the
square.

The upper part of the spire is pierced
witli eight highly ornamented dormer win-
dows; the arrises of the spire are decorated
with crockets.

This construction reveals the great art of
the architect, who knew how to break the
monotony of the spire's long, sloping lines
without making them appear heavy.

The little Place du Parvis shown above
is charming in its archalcal decoration.

The edifice seen on the left of the pho-
tograph is the old home of the Verman-
dois family, modified in the xivth century.
One can w'alk round the courtyard of the
old dwelling, entering through the door
seen between two big trees.

Between the house of Vermandois and
the church stands the Chapter House
(see p. 61).

'^l

The xiilh century
doorway was dam-
aged during the Revo-
lution. The great sta-
tues were decapitated
and have since been
restored. The bas-re-
liefs suffered conside-
rably.

This is the first door-
way consecrated to
the Virgin. Its design
served as model for
those of the cathedrals
of Chartres, Reims,
Amiens and Notre-
Dame de Paris.

The bas-relief of the
lintel, shown below,
represents, on its left
side, the death of the
Virgin. This part is
much damaged. The
apostles encircle the
bed on which the Vir-
gin is lying, two of
them swinging censers.
Two winged angels
bear away the Virgin's
soul, portrayed as a new-born babe wrapped in a swaddling cloth.

The right side, which represents the Resurrection of the Virgin, is in a
better state of preservation. An angel stands ready to crown Mary,
who is raised from her bed by three others, while a fourth leans forward the
better to see over those in front.

All this sculpture shows a truth and freedom of attitude, of which very few
examples are found in the xiith century.

Above the lintel, in the tympanum, is the Triumph of the Virgin ; — the
execution of this work is far from ecjual to that of the lintel.

In the niches of the arches are statues of the patriarchs, the prophets
and the kings of Judah.

The eight great statues which flank the door represent personages from
the Old Testament.

The one nearest the door, on the left, is Abraham. He holds his son by
the hair and stands ready to behead him but an angel restrains his sword.

Beneath the pedestals of the large statues is a " Calendar", i. e. a set of
symbolical scenes typifying the tvvelve months of the year, or the seasons.
That of Senlis is carved with much spirit.

F 1 HE
ATHEDRAL

1. 1 N 1 V- 1 .

OK ( A 1 IK 1)I;A I

DOIIHU A\

c:am-.M)Ah

OF THE
CATHEDKAI.

(rigl.t)

Tlio month of l'c;i.st,s. The pcusaul, .seated at table, pvcparo.s to <li'ink
Fi-lirndifi. Work is at a .standstill. The pea.sant i.s at tlie tire.-iiilr.
Woik ln'tfiiiK ayain. The peasant dig.s.
With till' s|,i-iiiu till' time has come to care for the trees.
Tile lonl. lii~ taleou ou his wrist, goes forth to hunt.
The pea.-aiil mows liis meadows.
It is the l)egiiiniiiy tif tlu' liarvest.

1 ..

uiiKini.

2..

liriKini.

3..

MarrlL.

4...

April.

5..

M.ui.

6..

Jn.u:.

7..

Jalii.

cai.i;m>ak

ov 1 UK

:a'1HK1)iiai.

(h'ft)

Sf'fe

8... Aiigti-it. The peasant threslies out the grain.

9. . . ^ejitember. The peasant gathers the grapes.

10. . . October. The peasant gathers in his crops.

i l . . . November. The peasant kills liis pig.

12. . . Deeeniber. The peasant puts cakes in the oven for the fetes at the end of llio year.

The south front of the Cathcdrnl has not the harmony of that of tlie
west.

The lower part of the apse dates from the xiith century, with its
radial chapels and, above, the little semicircular windows of the galleries.
The upper pait of the churcli belongs to the xvith century.

The rich facade of the transept also dates from the xvith century.

IITH IWfjADK

1)1' 'Mil'.

CATHEDRAL

The opposite view shows
the detail of the south fa.-

QADE OF THE TRAXSF.PT de-
signed by Pierre Chamblges,
son and pupil of Martin
Chamblges. The latter work-
ed on the Cathedrals of
Heauvals, Sens and Troycs,
and his son drew inspiration
from his work for the execu-
tion of that entrusted to him
at Senlis ; this explains the
great resemblance that va-
rious portions of these edi-
fices bear to one another.

In comparing the south
portal with the western fa-
cade one notes the develop-
ment of Gothic architecture
from the xiith century, when
its restraint and simplicity
of line still recalled Ro-
man art, to the xvith cen-
tury, when rich, flamboyant
decoration flared in its final
splendour, making way for
the art of the Renaissance
that the Italian wars brought into fashion.

The appearance of this fine ensemble is spoilt bj' the adjacent polygona
vestry erected on its right, which was rebuilt in the xixth century. A part
of it can be seen in the
above photograph; though
one can judge still better
of its ugly efTect from the
photograph on the preced-
ing page.

The north facade of

THE TRANSET'T Is, lu itS

general arrangement, the
same as that on the south,
but it is less richh' orna-
mented.

On the pediment which
surmounts the entrance
are carved the salamander
and the F of Francis I.
On that of the south are
the arms of France.

The tourist must not
fail to have a look at the
north side of the Cathedral,
which is very pictures-
que.

On the north tower the
marks of German shells
are still to be seen. The
photograph at the foot
of page 49 shows them
dearly.

Tin; (Al HKDHAI,

sul -ill

1 A(_AI)f,

or 1 I1AN5I PT

THE catukdral

NORTH FA^ADK
or TRANfKPT

INTEHKiR OF THE CATHEDRAL

PLAN
Jl lAlHEDRAL

E, stairs Icadiiiy to galleries.

Cr, chapel of transopt (vault with pcnilcntivcs).

M, aisles of choir.

O, radial chapels of the xntli (■( iitiirv (inoilt ni window.'

SKC.l ION
or C.\THKDRAI,

A, roo: of nave. Bt, B2, B3,
B4, transept.

C, piers .^upportiiif;' the vault
of the nave ]>y means of
flvinir buttresses.

D, first ai.sles o;' na\c and an
bulatorv.

(!, seeonil ai.vles of nave

T, galleries running round
the church.

GALLERIES
OF THE
CATHEDRAL

The Galleries of the Cathedral are
among the most beautiful in France.
The above view, taken from the choir gal-
leries which overlook, the southern part of
the transept, shows those of the nave in
eniilade.

In order to visit these fjallcries the key
must be obtained from the vestrij.

In the chapel seen on the right as one
re-enters the church by the south door,
the visitor will notice the hanging
bosses, of the vault of which a view is
given opposite.

In the Chapter house at the north west
end of the Cathedral (see plan p. 60), is

seen the curious capital of the central pillar, on which is carved a fete
of fools (jesters).

The opposite view shows a fragment of it.

Two of the figu-
res are playing the
organ, that on the
right is working the
bellows, another
with a stick beats
the tambourine
that he holds be-
tween his legs ; on
the remainder of
the Capital other
figures are dan-
cing.

The Chapter
house was used by
the canons of the
Cathedral.

HANGING BOSSES

Church of Saint-Frambourg (historical monument)

Stands in a lillle street whieh opens on the south of the Catliedral Square, The
church can be seen from the square.

This church was found-
ed on the site of a
iKAMKoiKo .^^^■^HTi:. A "^l Roman temple by Queen

Adelaide, wife of Hugues
Capet. Rebuilt in the
xiith and xiiith centur-
ies, transformed into a
" Temple of Reason "
during the Revolution,
it now serves as a car-
penter's workshop.

On the facade one can
distinguish the place for
a large rose window,
which was never finish
ed.

On the left side of
the facade stood a tower,
which has been demo-
lished.
The church has no roof left above the vaulLing. 7'o visit the interior
(consisting of a single nave of graceful ])roportions) appbi to the carpenter.
The entrance to the worksliop is seen on the left oj the plwlograph.

Church of Saint-Pierre (historical monument)

Market-day on Tuesdaijs and Fridays. Ij the tourist should wish to go
to tlic top of the belfrij or to visit the church on other than market days, he must
apply to tlie concierge of the Tribuncd {county court) in tlie square.

This old town of Senlis is so rich in relics of the past that it puts its ancient
religious monuments to quite profane uses.

We have seen above that Saint-I'rambourg shelters a carpenter. Saint-
Pierre serves as a market, another church as a theatre, a fourth as a museum
and others as clothing stores or barns. Five have completely disappeared;
as for the Abbey of Saint-Vincent, it has been turned into a college.

Saint-Pierre was founded in
1029 and reconstructed during
the xiiith and xivth centu-
sAiNi-piF.RRi!, i ^"^r^S . i ries.

The roof of the nave was
begun in stone but completesk**
in timber-work. The facade
dates from the xvith century
and recalls the work of Pierre
Chambiges in the Cathedral.

The right-hand tower dates
from the xviith century. From
the upper platform there is a
splendid view of the town and
the surrounding forests. Ano-
ther, more ancient tower exists,
the base of which is the remains
of the primitive Roman church.
The spire (the top of which is
seen in the opposite photo-
graph) was added in the xvth
century.

The Castle (historical luonuiufiil)

The Cdslle bcloiifjs Lu the Count Turqiicl dc La Boisscric ivho allows it to
be visited. Ajiphj lo tlie concierge.

KNTRANCK
TO THE CASTLE
AND IIOTKI,
DES TROlb-POTS

The entrance shown in tlie above view is in the Rue du Chdtel, quite close to
the square of Parvis-Sotre-Dame. On tlie left side stands the old hotel des
Trois-Pots, so called from the signboard which hangs from the first floor,
and formed of three pots which are being hlled by a thin stream of water.

HI INS (II I HE
CAST! L CHAI'LL

SEN LIS

CASTLE
AND PRIORY OK
SAINT-MAURICK

ROMAN

ENCLOSURE

This old
dwelling re-
calls all the
history of
France from
the Gallo
Roman con-
quest to the
reign of Henri

The Castle
itself, of
which only a
part exists (vi-
sible on the left in the above photograph), was erected on the site of an
old Roman fort. At the foot ran the boundary line of the town, partly form-
ed by the wall which encloses this side of the estate and the tower which
flanks the north front of the buildings.

The Merovingian and Carlovingian kings often inhabited the Castle, situa-
ted as it was in the midst of their favourite hunting-grounds..

It was the theatre of numerous historical events; Pepin, duke of Acjui-
taine, grandson of Charlemagne, died imprisoned there; Baldwin of Flanders
carried off from there the daughter of Charles the Bald. In 987, the last
Carlovingian king having died while out hunting, the French lords assembled
in the Castle and elected as king. Ungues Capet whose dynasty reigned in
France until the Revolution. Philippe-Auguste held festivities there on
returning from his wedding with Elizabeth of Hainault. Saint Louis found-
ed the priory of Saint-Maurice. During the Hundred YearsWar, Catherine
of France was married to Henry V of England at Senlis, in 1420.

After Henri IV, the very dilapidated castle was gradually abandoned.
Justice was still administered there until the falling in of the Audience
Chamber in the xviiith century.

The interior of the Castle is in ruins. There is one room to be seen, called
Henri IV's Room, which is shown on the following page. It dates
from the xiiith century. It is covered with fine panelhng. The fireplace
was altered in the xvth century but the big circular section flue remains
just as it was in the xiiith century.

On the left of this fireplace a xiiith century window (now blocked up) can
still be distinguished. The one at the further end of the room belongs to the
xvith century. In the photograph some tombstones are seen, resting

against the
wall; on a
fragment
placed against
the chimney-
piece are the
arms of Diane
de Poitiers
(characterised
by the cres-
cent); the two
cannon balls
are of stone;
these were
hurled from
catapults and
from the first
bom barding
machines.

HKXRI IV S

ROOM

IN THE CASTLE

Of the Chapel built in the beginning of the xiith century iiuthing remains
but ruins, avie\v of which is given on page 63. It was situated on the first
floor; a " semi-circular " arcade of the nave is still to be seen, on the right
side. The ground floor, vaulted like an arbour, formed a passage.

The priory of Saint-Maurice, of which one ivy-covered building still exists
(visible on the right of the photograph at the top of the preceding page), was
founded by Saint-Louis in honour of Saint-Maurice who commanded the
Theban legion, massacred under Diocletian for refusing to w jrshiji false gods.

In 1234 the king succeeded in obtaining the bodies of several of these
martyrs from the vicar of Saint-Maurice en Valnis.

A church, copied from the Sainle-Chanelle in Paris, was built to shelter
these relics. It was destr.ye 1 diring the Revolution.

Passing under the Roman enclosure by a subterranean pas'^age, we arrive
at the old moat, transformed into a kitchen garden. From here there is a
very interesting view of the wall and the Roman towers, the Cathedral and
the Castle. A good idea of it is given by the photograph at tl\e foot of the
preceding page.

The Roman enclosure continues towards the Cathedral, passes by the
apse, from there to Saint-Frambourg, and its oval rejoins the Castle by
the Place de la Halle, the rue aux Fromages and the rue du Puits-Tiphaine.
It measured 312 m. (1024 f') at its greatest diameter and 242 m. (794 f) at
its smallest diameter: 28 towers adorned the walls which were 7 m. (23 f')
high and 4 m. (13 f) thick.

The town, having grown, was cramped in the limits of the Roman city;
the new ramparts were raised between the xiiith and xvith centuries; the
tourist has already travelled over a part of them.

The platform of the Roman fort, which was followed by the Castle, stood
on the part which (with the rue Villevert) forms a corner of the estate. It
is reached by the narrow passage, made in the thickness of the sub-basement,
which led to the dungeons. It was in one of these (towards the year 870)
that Pepin, king of Acjuitaine, died, imprisoned by order of Charles the
Bald, against whom he had revolted.

Subterranean passages connected certain important points of the Castle.
They were supposed to lead as far as the Castle of Montepilloy {see p. 69)
and the Abbey of Chaalis {see p. 72).

The old Abbey of Saint-Vincent.

To visit it opplij to the concierge in the rue clc Mcaux.

ABBET OF
SAIST-VIXCEXT

THE ABBEY
I I.dlSTI R

ESTRASCE
THE ABBET

(ri I

DE MEAI N 1

the presence ol I lie

Tlie Abbey of St.-Vincenl was founded in 1065
by'^Anne of Russia, wife f f the l<ing of France,
Henri I, in fulfdment of a vow.

The Abbey Church was rebuilt in the xiilh
century.

The tower which dates from that period, is
scjuare ; it has two stories with very liigh dormer
windows grouped in pairs on each front, which
give a very light appearance to tlie general struc-
ture.

The other building-; belonging to Ihe Abbey
were rebuilt in the xviith century. Inside, an
interesting cloister still exists, with a Doric colon-
nade, shown on the oj^posite view.

After the Revolution the Abbey was turned
into a hospital, then into barracks and after that
into spinning mills. In 1S36 it became the College
Sai .t-Vincent, counting among its pupils INIarshal
Canrobert and the ])oet
Jose-Maria de Heredla.
Many inhabitants of
Senlis" too\ refuge in the
Abbey cellars during the
bondiardment of the
2nd of Septend)er, 1914.
St. -Vincent soon served
as annex to the hospital,
which was too small
to hold all th? wound-
ed. In the photograph
on page 44 we see the
transport of wonnd d
being carried on by the
Red Cross in Septeml)er.
ini 1. The lemjiorary
hos])ilal remained after
Die departure of the
Cermans. which ex plains
woundicl s en in the foregr nnd ( f llie Ojjposite view.

The Arena (liistorical inouumenl)

The f/alc al llic entrance aj Ihc road leading from (he Place dc Crcil in
the Arena is somelinies locked. Aj)iilij to the Syndical d' Initiative {hotel
I'u Grand-Cerj) for the key.

The Arena was discovered in 1864. It a])parenlly goes as far back as the
Third century.

The tiers encircle a track nieasuriniiliiO feet by 111) feet. Two large entrances,
whic'i were vaulted, lead into the Arena at each txtremity of the great axis.
On the other axis are two little rooms, which were no doubt reserved for the
gladiators. In the southern one niches are hollowed in the wall: these
probably served as cupboards

vii;\v

Ol AUINA

CHAJIANT

FROM SENLIS TO MEAUX (05 km.)

(See maps intercalated opposite and between pages 82-83.)
Via CiiAMANT, ]\Iont]':pili.oy, Baron, Ciiaalis, Ermenonville

StaiiitKj jrom the Compiegne Gate, we leave the Uavii by the route Nationale
{N 17). After having crossed the railivai/ we turn to the right and joUow N 32
as far as the first road on the right bordered with trees, whieh leads to Chainant.
100 yds. before the village we enter a field enclosed by liedyes, on the rigid of
the road (2 '.^ km.). In tliis field, which appears in the view on page 52, the
German troops were encamped. I\Ir. Odcnt, the JMayor of Senlis, and six
other hostages were shot there {p. 52). Mr. Odent's grave is near the wood
W'hich skirls the side of the field opposite the one which borders th.e road.
Near the enclosing hedge is the grave of a German caplain.

Go en to the village of Chamant, turn to the right, then to the left as far
as the church, the steeple of wiiicli can be seen as one enters tlie village. 'Ihis
church dates from the xiith century and was modified in the xi\th and
xvith. The Homan spire shown below- is remarkable. In the interior,
the capitals an;l vaulting decorated in many colours were restored at Napo-
leon the Third's expense, as was also the tomb of Lucien Bonaparte's wife,
which is to be found in the side chapel.

Go round the church, turn to the left, then lo ll'.e rigid, near the firemen's
gymnasium.

The road planted with trees which forms a ontinuation (on tl;e other
side of the route Nationale) of the road on which we stand, leads (700 yds.
from there) to the Castle of Chamant where the German Headquarters Staff
stayed. The cellar was pillaged: more than 1.200 bottles of champagne
were emptied.

This Castle, which dates from tl:e xviith century, was inhabited by
Lucien Bonaparte. Attached to it arc important racing stables.

Follow N 17 for about 1.500 yds. then lurnto the righttoivards Ognon (8 ', km.).
Turn twice lo the right in front of the church and go towards Barbery, the fac-
tories of which can be seen from afar. Cross tlie railway (12'ikm.) near the
station, a hich was set on fire by the Germans, and keep straight on towards
the keep of iviontepilioy (13 ':. km.) which stands on a neighbouring hill.

ciiLncii

OF CHAMANT

AroxTi;pn.LOY

The Caslle, llie
entrance to which
is shown on the
opposite view,
f o r m s part of a
farm.

Its name comes
from Mons spccii-
Udoram or '• Mount
of the watchers ".
It was built in the
xiith century. On
the 15th of August,
1429, Jeanne dWrc
occupied it. An
Englisli army com-
manded by the Duke of Bedford was between Monlepilloy and SenHs.
The battle took place on August IGthand enabled the troops of the King
of France to retake Scnlis. The castle was dismantled under Henri IV.

To obtain a view of the whole and to realise the dominating position of
the castle one must, before entering it, walk a few steps along th.e road which
descends on the right of the farm.

The entrance door is flanked by two large towers. The bulky masses of
masonry which supported the chains by which the drawbridge was worked
arestilltobeseen. We cross the old moats, of which portions still exist. On
tnterir.g the courtyard we sec the imposing ruins of the two towers, one
circular (of which
only one large piece
of the wall rem;dns)
the other square.

We retrace our
steps.

() n lea v i n g t h e
villaye, near an iron
shed, we turn into
the paved road on
the riijht and conti-
nue about 400 yds.
The German guns
which bombarded
Seulls wei'e placed
in the hollow on the
right. A German
grave will lie notic-
ed in the meadow.

^ye return t ) the
read and rjo doirn
towards Barbi'rij.
After the level cross-
ing, turn to t!:e
right into the main
road. After 4 '.. km.
turn again to the
right,cross the rail-
wm]] line, then the
village of Ducij;
climb a ridge and
descend by zigzags
to Baron (•.'~ hin.).

XTtPlLLOY

IV0NTEPILI,OY

BARON

HOUSE WHERK
THE MUSICIAN

I'KRIMII ]

IN '1 HI inn

I-'ntcvintj Huron,
we liini to the left in
the Iliijh Street and,
■iOO i/ds further on,
at tile end of the
I'loek, reach the

nOl'SE OF Al.BEP.IC

.Maonard.

It is marked by
i\ marble tablet
( V i s i 1:> 1 e in the
opposite view) on
whifh is enf»raved
liie following in-
scription :

• Alln'ric Magnanl,
iiiii^ical c-oinpospr, boni
in I'aris on 1ho lUh of

Jhuo, IStiu, ilicd on llir i'.i'il (if Sciilciiilirr, lUII. sliot and hnnit in liis luiusc wliilc trying

to defend it. •

Celui-hi qui, relxdlc ;'i tjuitc tnililsoii I A defcndu xon art contrf la l}arl)arip

Et pveferant la Muse a, toutf Walkyrie, | Devait ainsi nioiirir d{''fcndant sa inaison.

Edmoiid llosTAxn,
de VArademie Pran^aise.

(He who, revolting against treacliery
And preferring the Muse to any Valkyri

MAGNA Rn

hous
(inner facade:

Defenili'd liis art against barliaritv.

Was ddunicd tliustudii', dctVndinghislionir..)

His inspiration entirely French, Alagnard (as Rostand recalls in the above

lines) had kept 1 is art free from German influence.

His artist's sensitiveness made him suffer intensely from the horrors

of invasion; he warned his friends that he was resolved to die rather

than submit to the rule of the conqueror and that his revolver held four

bullets for the enemy and one for himself.

He had sent his family back to Paris, only keeping his young son-in-law

with him. The Germans entered Baron on the 2nd of September. On

the 3rd. at about 9 o'clock in the morning, a j arty of siadiers entered the

grounds. The composer had locked and barricaded hmself in the villa.

After summoning him three times the Germans lired from the garden at the

fafade shown in the opposite view.

Magnard retaliated through the Venetian blinds of window on the first

floor, killing one of the soldiers and wounding another The composer'sson-

in-law returning frrm
a short walk, arrived
at the begiiming of
this scene. Seizde and
bound to a tree, he
oidy escaped death b\^
passing himself off as
the gardener. Afttr
having fired a few
rounds the Germans
awaited the instruc-
tions of the comman-
der. The latter at
first decided to bum
the village as a reprisal
but on the entreaties
of the Ihiblic Notary,

in tlie fire

-M»' llobiTt, inudiliud [\\v

sentence and ordered

that the incendiarism

should be limited lo the

villa Ma^nard. After

havinji hurriedly pilla-

y e d the c o n\ p o s e r ' s

study, the soldiers set

lire to the kitchen with

straw and i»renades.

When the smoke beuan

to rise M'- Robert and

Ma.cnard's son-in-law

heard a report from the

interior of the house.

The author of Giicrca'iir

and of Berenice had no

doubt just died by his

own hand. An officer

then said to the Notary

'• He takes the best wayout '". Magnard's body was consunuM

His revolver was found with three chambers empty.

The village was looted. An officer ordered the Notary, M^' Robert, to
open his safe. As he at first refused to obey this order, the officer told
two of his men to load their weapons, and M" Robert was forced to hand
over the 8.300 francs the safe contained. While the Notary was occupied
in satisfying these demands, the Germans stole his silver, his jewelry and
that of his wife, even his personal linen, in exchange for which they left
him their dirty shirts. The cellar was entirely cni])tied l)y the officers, who
took 1.471 bottles of rare wine.

The same witness saw an officer wearing '.i woonu-ns rings and 3 bracelets
on each arm.

Relnrninu from Mcujnard's house folluiv the High Street as far as the Church
(historical monument). This church is of the xiith and xiiith centuries
with a fine steeple belonging to the xvth (view above).

There is beautiful panelling to Ije seen inside (view below). Joan
of Arc received
the sacrament here
on the eve of
the battle against
the English below
.Mo n t epi 1 loy, in
1 12*).

Follow tlie road
n'hich is a conti-
nuation of the High
Street. At this
point and as far
as S e n 1 i s , r e a r -
guard actions wer.'
fought. AftT
j' '.. km., tarn to the
left (in the field
which forms the
corner of the two
roads there is a
German grave).

3 km. J urther on lain to the left again into the road t:i ErnicnonviHe and after
having proceeded about 1.200yds. go down the lane u^hichleads under the trees tothe
entrance to the domain which constituted the ancient abbey of Chaaiis(.35 '•. km.).

B-VKdN
( Ht RCH

P.WEI.LIXO
IIF tllLHlH

CHAALIS

At the very beginning of Ihu xiith century, on his return from tlie First Cru-
sade, a lord of Mello founded a priory at Calisiiim. In 1136 the king
Louis le Gros, wishing to lionour the memory of liis brother, Charles le Bon
who was assassinated in Bruges, transformed this priory into an abbey
which was placed under tlie management of the Order of Citeaux, whose
radiating power was beginning to make itself felt.

The Ahbey, flourishing under the protection of the kings of France, the
bishops of Senlis and the lords of Chantilly, became of great importance.

Its present condition can only give a faint idea of its former disposition
and size.

The good king St-Louis often came to share the peaceful life of tlie monks,
cultivating the soil and the vine, looking after the bees, fishing for pike in
the ponds, and eating in the common refectory, out of a wooden bowl, amidst
the tame birds that came from all tlie country around to join in the meals.

At the time of the Renaissance tlie Abbey fell in commendam, that is to
say it was no longer the property of the community hut that of the Abbot,
who was thenceforth chosen by the king instead of being elected by the
monks. The first comniendalory abbot was the Cardinal Hippolyte d'Este,
son of I.ucretia Borgia. Reducing the monks to a bare allowance, the
Cardinal made free use of the Abbey revenues, which enabled him to build
his famous Villa d'Este at Tivoli and its magnificent gardens.

In 1570, the great Italian poet Tasso spent several months at Chaalis
and there worked at his Jeinsaleni Delivered.

In the xviiith century, the reconstruction of the Abbey was undertaken.
Jean Aubert, th; architect of the "Grandes Ecuries" at Chantilly and the
Hotel Biron in Paris, was entrusted with the plans. The work was begun
but not completed. The abbatial building, which to-day contains the
museum and which can be seen on the left of the beautiful avenue leading
to the entrance gate, shows the dignified style that Aul ert wished to apply
to the new' edifice.

RUIXS

OF THE

ABBEY CHURCH

All these works la:! the Ahl^ey inlo debt. Louis XVI had it closed and
j)laced ii liquidation. The Hcvolution completed its ruin. Sold as natio-
nal property, Cliaalis greatly suffered.

The liuildinas \vere for the greater part destroyed, the old church was
sold piecemeal at the rate of twelve sous per cartful of stones

In the xixth century, the successive jroprietors diil their utmost to
reconstitute the domain. The grounds were bought back, the ruins consoli-
dated. The abbatial building became a castle; the park was laid out
again. In 1902, M^e Jacquemart-Andre bought the estate for 1.200.000
francs. She bequeathed it to the "Institut de France" with the museum
that she had established in the Castle. The Institut took possession of it
in 1012. at the donor's death.

Till-: Church

The Church, built at the beginning of the xinth century, is of great interest
from an archaeological point of view, for it shows the first application (bj'
the Cistercians) of th.e Gothic style of architecture which had just made its
appearance in the He de France. In the hundreds of abbeys created by the
original abbey of Citeaux (situated near Dijon), the Roman style had
hitherto held sway. Beginning with Chaalis, th.e Cistercians proceeded to
spread the pointed arch all over Europe where soon more than l.SOO branch
abbeys were scattered.

The church of Chaalis was vast, measuring 269 f ' by 89 f'.

Its transept (the ruins of the northern part are seen in the view on the
preceding page) was remarkable for its enormous size, compared with that
of the choir, and for the seven radial chapels — one of which is clearly
visible on the right of the view — enclosed in each of its branches. An
outline of the nave remains (on the left of the photograph): it had 12 bays
preceded by a porch. The steeple which rose from the tower was destroyed
by lightning in the xviith centurj'. The monastery was connected with the
church, and the outline of the storied galleries is seen in the view below.
The abbot's chapel appears in the middle distance, on the right of the view on
the preceding page. It is designed in the style of the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris.

.A. J

RUINS

OF THE CHURCH

SEEV FROM THE

ROUTE

DES ETANGS

'^^m^t

Visit to tiii; domain oi' C.ii.wi.is

luom [he l-jlli April to Ihe lat Noncinbcr Ihc Miisnini iind the Purl: arc ojicn
un Thursdajj aflcrnoons, jrom 1 In J nr H p. m. An iiilcnsHiuj (/uidc
by Ihe Curator, I.niiis Gillcl, is soUi for 2 francs.

For the passing motorist, tlie visit in detail is nol iii(lis|)ensai)le. TJie
jMuseum, althou<':h interesting, is far from equal lo Ihal which ."\1""- Jacque-
marl-Andre established in her house in IJie boulevard Haussmanu, Paris,
and which she bequeathed to the Inslilul nl llie same time as Chaalis. As
far as concerns the park and the ruins, an a(le(|uale idea of Ihcni will he
obtained by following our itinerary.

From the entrance gate one sees ; in Ironl, the ruins (if Ihe church; to the
left, the (>astle, containing tlic museum. The whole is (piiLe imposing.

A I a moderate pace, one takes ihe road {on Ihe ritjhl of the f/ate) which leads
lo the ponds. After having gone round them through the enchanting scenery,
of lohieh the photograph below gives some idea, the road runs through woodlands
and brings one bacli to tlie high-road of Ermenonville, and down this one
turns to the left.

Un the other side of this road spreads tlie second portion of tlie domain
of Chaalis : the Desert, which formerly belonged to the park of Ermenonville.
In the neighbourhood of this park, it consists of a lovely, wooded land-
scape, with two ponds in the background. At the other extremity there is a
great contr,^-.st, for an arid stretch of land, tlie " Sea of Sand ", faces th?
ponds of Chaalis.

The Desert, like the park of Ermeno:-ivi|le, teems with meuKjries of
Jean-.Jacques Rousseau (see p. 75).

Skirting the ponds of the Desert one arrives at Ermenonville (40 km.).

The Castle, which belongs to Prince Radzivill, is on the left of the road;
{il is not open to visitors). The park {open to the public on Sundays, Thursdays
and holidays), is on the right.

The castle was occupied in September 1914 by German staff ofllcers who
contented themselves with pillaging the wine cellar.

ERMKNoWlI.I.i: 75

The i)aii< of IJiiR'Hiim illc was desi^iu'il 1 >• llir .\lai(|uis cic (iii'ardiii. 'lliis
ardent disciple (d .!.-.!. llousseaii. did liis idinosL l(j make liie park an
illuslralion of the iihiiosoplier"s work. In llie jtarL which now i)ertains to
CiiaaUs, the Desert, he claimed to reprodnce in miniature the Alpine landsca-
I)es where were laid the sceiies of Julie on la Xniii'cllc Ilrloisr. This touching
worshiT succeeded in dispelling the misanthropy of Rousseau, wlio was
living in I'aris, in gloomy solitude. lie accepted the ]\Iarquis' hospitality and
settled down at l-:rmcnonville on the 2(»lh of .May, 1778. On the 2nd of
.Inly the " man of nature " jjassed away amidst frees, flowers and birds. He
was buried in the Isl^.nd of Poplars (I'llc des Peupliers, view below) that one
catches sight of on tlie right of the road, iri the middle of the pond, when
one reaches the k'\ el (d the centre of the caslle. trousseau's influence on
his century was immense and for a long time his tomb was the goal of
universal | ilgrimage. The philosoj)her's remains are no longer at Erme-
nonville: Ihe C.cnvention had lliem exhumed i\\m\ fransferred (o the Pan-
theon.

Cross llw village, Icavini/ tlir slaliir aj J.-./. Jiousscaii on Ihc Ir/t. an I ivlicn
at the top of the hill turn lo the left. Four !:ilomelres further on is Ihr I'lcssis-
Belleville School of .{vialion. From there i/o straiijht on.

At Samt-Souppiets, al ihe branchincj off of the road with tltat <if Danunarlin
{■54 km.), stands the Belle-Idee inn. which was the scene of an interesting
exploit : a German officer and about 15 men had stayed in the inn after the
evacuation of Saint-Soupi)]ets. when a French patrol, composed of Sergeant
Vannerot and six men. entered.

The officer immediately fired at the sergeants lait nussed. The latter
then transpierced him with a bayonet thrust and the rest of (he German
trooj) were killed or put to flight.

At Penchard ((11 'jkm.) turn to the left after the town-hall. The roaddeseends
towards Meau.r, (living a beautiful view of the town, dominated bij its Cathe-
dral. In Meaux we turn to the left to go under the bridge an I arrive cd the
Cathedral (f!-J kn).) (see plan inlerealated overleaf).

.^^.^ - -.- - ^ ,.^F^i%

MEAUX

(See plan intercalaled opposite.)
SIGHTS \A/ORTH SEEING

Not to be missed : liie Cathedral (p. 77-80), the Old Mills (p. SI).

Of great interest : Tlie Old Bishop's Pat./ ce and its gardtn (p. 80-81),
the Old Chapter House (p. 80).

Walks : Ihe Trinitaip.es, the Boulevard Jean-Rose, skirlins the ram-
parts.

ORIGIN AND GREAT HISTORICAL EVENTS

Meaux was the centre of a little Gallic nation : the Mcldi — the inhabi-
tants of Meaux are called Meldois — and afterwards the capital of Brie. It
was joined to the royal domain in 1284.

Religious life was always Aery active in Meaux : six assemblies of prelates
were held there Irom the ixthto the xiiith centuries, andtwo in thcxvith cen-
tury.

It was the treaty of -Aleaux, in 1229, which put an end to the Crusade
against tiic Albigeois. At the time of the Reformation, the religious wars in
that region became extremely violent. In the xviith century, the diocese
became famous on account of its l)ishop Bossuet, who was called the Eagle
of Meaux.

The town was taken and set fire to several times in the course of its trou-
bled history.

In 1358, the peasants in revolt, who were called the Jacques, were cut to
pieces below the walls by the French and English nobles.

MEAUX IN 1914

II ppier now than in 1814 and 1870, Meaux escaped the horrors of invasion;
it was only crossed by some German patrols. A few shells fell in the fau-
bourg Saint-Nicolas and even in the neighbourhood of the Cathedral but
no serious damage was done.

The British troops in retreat crossed the town on the 2nd and 3rd of
September and blew up the INIarket bridge (view below) also the footbridge,
further down stream; the floating wash-houses which might have served as
pontoons had been sunk.

13.000 out of 14.000 inhabitants left Meaux with the civil authorities. The
bishop, ]\lgr Marbeau, showed great energy in organising help for those who
remained in the town and for the wounded that poured in after the 5th of
September. In spite of the existing circumstances a Te Dciim wa; sung in
the Cathedial for the election of the pope Benoit XV.

MARKKT ERIDGK

AM)

WASH-H(irSI.>

^,f's'3/f®

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MEAUX

sou/vnEs
I PLICE MII'SEDFFtOI
I PLICE SIIIMIUI
1 PLICE DU TEIPIE

t Nuur ot Pont <lu I

UOTELS
1 - HOTEL IE LI SIlilE
t - HOTEL OES HOIS ROIS

Cathedral of Saint-Etienne (hisloiical inonuiiieiit)

Beaiilijid panurama from Ihv lop of the bel/ii/. To visit, applij
to the I'crgcr ((jraluity).

The building of the
Cathedral was begun at
the end of the xiith cen-
tury and continued
until the xvith. It has
just been c()nii)k'U'l\' res-
tored.

The left tower, the
only one completed, has
no spire. That on the
right is called the Black
Tower, because of its
covering of slates. The
facade is in the deco-
rated Gothic style. A
beautiful rose window in
the middle, dominates
the three doorways.

The middle doorway
and that on the right are
surmounted by acute
triangular gablets; that
on the left, of a more ob-
tuse ogive, is placed
under an arch in acco-
lade. The church is pre-
ceded by a par^•is
dating from 1610, which
is reached by means of
8 steps.

The stone used in the
present building has, un-
fortunately, very little

resistance and is weather-worn. In the course of the revolutions witnessed
by the old Cathedral, mutilations were added to the damage caused by
weather.

The three rows of statuettes which adorn each i)orch are nuich spoilt, as
are the bas-reliefs which decorate the tympanum.

The great statues which filled the niches have disappeared.

CAl HI DltAl,
OF Ml-Al X

1 HE MARXE
AT MEAL'X

(Catl

VII'.W OI

NAVE OF

CATHEI)

TIIIO
•| UK
MAI.

After having viewed
llie ivest jaatdc lire loii-
risl, l<eepinij to tlw riglU
of tlie Cathedral slioald go
and loolx at llie Lions'
DOORWAY, which is oil
Ihc soutli front.

'lliis xiiith century
(lo(jiway, restored in tlie
xixth by VioUel-le-Duc,
takes its name from the
.gargoyles, representing
lions, w'hicli flank it.
It is a reprofluclion of
the southern doorway of
Notre-Dame de Paris.

Entering the Cathedral
bij tlie Lions' Doorwag,
I lie tourist will be struck
liy the lightness and
I he richness of the de-
cDialion of Ihe interior,
which has been subjected
lo extensive restoration.
The great height of
the aisles is noticeable.
It is explained by the
existence, in the original
church, of vaulted gal-
leries which were raised
above the aisles, as in Senlis and Notre-Dame de Paris. These galleries
disappeared in the great transformations which took place at the end of
the xiith century and the aisles therefore remained uotably super-elevated.

The TOMB OF THE Eagle of
Meaux is in the choir, on the
right, marked by a tablet of
lilack marble.

The Pui,piT (see on the right
in the opposite view) was made
from some o! the panels from
the old pulpit where preached
tlie great Bossuct. The bishop
ot Meaux, in spite of his cares
at Court, worked very ener-
getically in his diocese and
preached ia the Cathedral
many sermons which lacked
none of the inspiration that
shone through the magnificent
disrourses delivered, during his
career as a preacher, be'^ore the
royal audience.

He maintained strict disci-
pline amongst the clergy and
religious orders under I is juris-
diclion. Mis contests with the
Abbess of .louarre went as far
as a forcil;)lc seizure of the
Al)l)ev buildings.

1 1

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MEAUX

The oppobilc view shows
the further end of the
TRANSEPT, to which coTres-
))oiids the Lions' Door on
tlie exterior. The decora-
tion liere is particularly rich.

Above the transept rose a
beautiful spire in tiui!.>er-
work covered with lead, but
as it was in a very precarious
condition it was found neces-
sary to demolish it in IGIO.

On the left of the view one
sees the conimcncement of
the choir, the execution of
which shows to what heights
of lii^htiiess and boldness of
constructi(;n Gothic archi-
tecture had arrived. The
walls between the piers are
jiollowed out by pierc-
ings and mouldings; it is
a miracle of equilibrium.

Originally the choir had
only three chapels. Two
intermediary chapels were
added in the xivth century.

When niakimj the lour 0/
the choir the visitor will see,
opening on the north into the

courtyard of the old Chapter House, the beaufitul Porte Maugarni, dating
from the xvth century. The name of Maugarni (a gaolbird hanged on this
spot in 1372 by order of the bailiff of Meaux) came down to posterity by
reason of the long lawsuit that the Chapter of the Cathedral brought against
the baililT because of this execution carried out in ecclesiastical precincts.

Almost directly in front of the Porte JNIaugarni, with its back to the choir,
is a white marble statue representing the kneeling figure of a young knight :
Philippe de Castille. In 1G03, his
father founded the barefoot order of
Notre-Danie-de-la-Merci. The statue
comes from the church belonging to
the Convent of that Order.

Beside the door is a stone figure ct
Christ of the xvith century.

One can also see in the seciuid
chapel, beyond the great doorway in
the north aisle of the nave, the group
(in high relief) of the Visitation
(xviith century) and the picture of the
Adoration of the Wise Men, -attribut-
ed to Philippe de Champaignc. 'the
synuuelrical chattel, on the sonlh.
contains the tombstone of Jean Rose
and his wife. Jean Ruse was one of
the great bourgeois of Meaux in the
xivth century. His name was given
to one of the boulevards of the lo\\n.

At the entrance to the nave, the
xviith century organ, is supporled by
beautiful arcading.

I K.\N>EPT
AXn CHOIR OF
CATHEUBAI.

P(1K 1 !■ MAI

(C.-»tlit(h-;il)

BOSSlEl ?
M O N U M E N 1

(Cathedral

Bossuet's Monujiknt, the work
of the sculptoi" Dubois (1907), stands
ill the nortli aisle, near the main
entrance.

At the foot of the pedestal, on the
right, are represented Turenne and
M"*^ de Lavalliere, converted hy
Rossuel ; M^'" de Lavalliere appears
in the garb of a nun. It will he re-
membered how, after Mni'de Montes-
jian had replaced her in the favour of
the king Louis XIV, she withdrew to
the convent of the Carmelites, under
the name of Sister Loinse delaMiscri-
corde. On the left are Henrietta of
France, Queen of Juigland, whose
funeral oration was delivered by the
Eagle of Meaux, and the Dauphin,
whose tutor Bossuet had been.

Behind the pedestal is a bust of
I he Cireal Conde. Bossuet was his
friend, and frequently visited him in
his beautiful castle of Chantilly and
often received him at the Bishop's
Palace. His death inspired the
l\agle of INleaux with one of his most
magnificent funeral orations.

The old Chapter House (historical monumenl)

[.caving the Callicdral bij Ihc west door
the Bishop's Paliicc, Ihc cnlrancc In ivhirh

■[ III

liAPTin H

one walks into Ihc courfijard of

is on Ihc viijht oj the square. At

the further end of the

courtyard is the old

Chapter House.

This old dwelling place
of tlie Canons of the
Cathedral dates from
the xiiith century.

It is in course of res-
toration. Its curious, co-
vered, outside staircase,
which is well seen in the
opposite view, is well
known to archaeologists.

We have seen further
back, in the case of the
Porte Maugarni, how
vehemently the canons
defended their preroga-
tives.

The old Biohop's Palace

The old Bishop's Palace, the courtyard front of which faces the Cathedral,
dates from the xiith century and was altered in the xvith and xviith. On
the ground floor arc two fine, vaulted, xiith century rooms. An inclined
plane leads to the second floor. According to tradition, one of the bishops
had it made that he might go up to his rooms without dismounting from
his mule.

Amongst the first
floor rooms are those
of Marie-Antoinette and
the king. Meaux was
indeed a halting place
for Louis XVI and the
roj'al family on their
return from Varennes.

The king's room was
also occupied by Napo-
leon I when he came
back from the Russian
campaign.

The town of Meaux is
now establishing a mu-
seum in the buildings
of the Bishop's Palace.

The north front looks over a pretty garden, laid out by I-e Notre {lo
he seen on Thursdaijs and Sundays. On other days apply lo the lodyc-
keeper in the entrance court-yard. Gratuity.)

At the end of the garden on the ramparts dating from the Middle Ages is
a terrace. It is reached by a covered staircase placed at the north-east
angle. From there one has a beautiful view of the garden, the Bishop's
Palace and the Cathedral (view above).

On the terrace stands a little pavilion known as Bossuet's Study. The
great bishop liked to work there, and often, by way of relaxation, took a
walk along an avenue of fine yew trees which was near by, on the ram-
parts.

The Old rvii!Is

After visiting the Bishop's Palace we go through the rue Martiniprey to
the banks of the Marnc.

The view is extremely picturesque; on one side are the mills which dam
the river; on the other is the beautiful Promenade des Trinitaires, with its
old poplars. The mills shown in the view below were rebuilt in the xvith
century. The other side of the buildings looks on to the ^larket bridge
(view p. 76). These buildings, in spite of their age, withstood the blowing
up of the bridge in 1014.

Slightly downstream are the luodern mills of rEchelle, which replaced
mills similar to those of the Market bridg?, burnt in 1843.

THE OLD

bishops" palace

iLD MILLS

NOTE

The tovir indicated l)y us in the following
pages, for the visit to the Ourcq l)attle-
fiekl. starts from Meaux and finishes there.

The second vohniie. that we devote to the
battle of the Marne : « The Marshes of Saint-
GoND », takes the tourist from Meaux through
the Valley of the Grand Morin. Provins,
Sezanne, I.a Fere-Champenoise, to Chalons-
sur-Marne, and shows the operations of the
British Army and of the 5th and ijtli
French Armies.

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VISIT

to the

OURCO BATTLE-FIELD

3tll-()tll ScptCMIlllLT 1 I) 1 1

CHAUCONIN

FROM IVIEEAUX TO MARCILLY (28 km.)

(See plan intercalated between p. 82-83)

Via Chauconin, Neufmontiers, jMontiiyon, Pknciiard, Chambry,

Barcy

Slart from Mcanx in fronl of the Cathedral. Go down tlie rue Saint-Ee'nyif,
pass under tire railway bridge, then turn to the left and lake the N 3 for about
2 km. Turn to the right in front of a beet-root factor;/ and follow the road
planted with plane trees which lean's to Chauconin (4 km.).

BUllNT HOLSKS

CH.\UC0N1N

After having had a peep at the liitle country church, we lake a few steps
alnn^ the path shown in the above view. The houses which border it still
show Iraces of the incendiary fires of September 1914. The Germans occupied
the village for a few hours on the 5th, just long enough to pillage the dwellings
and partlj' burn them by means of grenades flung on to the roofs and sticks
of resin thrust under the doors.

Having crossed the village, we have before us llic buildings and liigh chimneij
of the PrOjJit Farm, situated at Neufmontiepo. Take tl\c road which leads
to it. On reaching the level of tlie farm ^ome French ^nd CiERjrAN gr.wes
(of which a view is given below) will be seen, to the right of the road.

GR.^Vf.S

XEUFMOSTIKRS

The German grave is on the left, isolated. It is marked by a black cross
on which is painted the letter .\. In the background can be distinguished
Ihe wooded heights of I'cnclinrd, in llic (•(inciucst of which fell the h'rench
and Moroccan soldiers licic buried.

XF.rFMONTIF.nS

In frop.t of the
graves is one of
the entrances of
the PROPriT Farm.
The view opposite
shows a part of tlie
courtyard. This
fine farmstead liacl
been niarlscd down
and condemned in
advance.

The Germans
had themselves
specially led there

from Chauconin. They hioted the farmer's house: near the safe was found
one of liie skeleton keys with which they tried to force it.

They then fired the stables and barns, where nearly 20.000 bundles of
straw made a siiiantic blaze.

PBOFIIT FAH^r
Bl RST
BY THE
GERM.\XS

GERMAN'
AMBILAM
iN THE
THL IlLH

Skirlinf/ the trails of the /aim. llw road lea-Is /.■* the Cnrncu where the Ger-
mans installed an ambulance during their short occupalioji of .September .5th.
The inhabitants who remained in the villase v.cve commandeered ;uid had
to carry in the German wounded, on ladders, from the surrounding neigh-
bourhood.

On tlie morning of tlie (UJi, the French re occupied Xtufmontiers and cap-
tured the ambu-
lance {view above).

The 0 p {) 0 s i t e
photograph, taken
in the C h u r c h
Square, sIidas a
few of the German
prisoners amoiigst
some French sol
diers; several of
the latter are wear-
ing pointed hel-
mets taken from the
heaps of trophies
in front of them.

(iERMAX
I'rtliO.NEKS
I.V FRONT
OF THE
t IlL UCH

VILLKROY

rxiinning between the Proffil Farm and the ehnrch. the mad slopes down to the brook, la
on is the spot from whicli the Panohama A seen below ((> '.. km.) was taken, embracing the

The advance guard of the ivth German reserve corps had phued its artillery in the
guns had advanced into the plain, utilising le Rulel and the Neufmonl iers to Iverny road

Kuail to

llc.nliS uf Cuisy

A. I'anohama of Moxthygx,

September, at noon, from jNIonthyon at a I*"rencli l)attery wliich was coming out of
of the 5ath division tried their hardest to push the Germans back beyond JNIonthyon,
the Moroccan brigade attacked the lieights of Penchard and carried them with the
montiers and Chauconin, which the Germans occupied. This occupation only lasted a few
7th corps further north, abandoned their formidable positions at Monthj'on — Penchard
possession.

GRKAT

GRAVE

OF VILLEROT

Continuing on the road to
Villeroij we come, after about
2 km., to the great grave
of which a view is given op-
posite. It contains the bodies
of numerous ofTicers and
men who fell in the surround-
ing fields. At the exi remc end
of the grave on the right is
buried the well known writer,
Charles Peguy. whose death

seems to have lieen the one he desired when writing the following lines,

now famous :

Ileui'oux coux qui sout niorts dans Irs gr.uuli's liatuilUs
Coucliiis ilessus Ic sol :i l.a Uwc do l>icu. .
Heureux ceux qui sout iiiorts pour lour I'ltro ot linr IVu
Et los pauvros lionnours dos niaisous pati'ruellos...
He.uroiix ooux qui sout luorts, car ils sout retourniVs
Dans la prouiii'ro nrgilo ot la i)roiuii'ro torre.
Hourcnx ciux qui 'Out iiiorts dans uno juste guorro,
llourc ux Ics ('pis liu'irs i i Ics IjU's uioissonnos.

At the fork oj the ro^:d whieh comes after the grave go to the right towards
Iverny. It is within 200 yds. of these cross-roads, in the field on the left
of the road, that f.ieutenant Peguy was killed, — shot through the head while
standing amidst his soldiers of the 276th, whom he had ordered to lie down.
On arriving at Iverny, turn to the right towards Monlhyon. At the entrance to
this village, near the farm de I'Hointal, there is a little pond where the
cases of shells abandoned by the Germans were emptied (View on
following page).

MONTHYOX

Riitel, wliicli it crosses-. At the fork i-f Ihc road, turn lo (he riijht. A hundred yards further
field of action of the 5th day of Sepleinber.

declivities of the heights ot Monthyon and Pcnchard; the infantry troops and machine
as iiitrenchnients. The first canncn shot of the battle of the Marne -was fired on the 5th of

;;J frjin Ncuimonli'Ti

. t. I.c :n- Lj t; 1

Penchard, Xeufmontiers

Iverny, and killed the cajitaln. 'Ihe fight \vas sanguinary all that day. The troops
but were stopped on the plain by the terrible fire of the machine guns. At the sa metime
bayonet, but it could not maintain its position there and was forced Lack behind Xeuf-
hours for during the night the German troops, threatened with being outflanked by the
and the outposts at Xeufmontiers — Chauconin. The next morning the Frencli took

These cases belonged to the three Latteries of 77's which were estab-
lished on the right of the road behind the farm buildings, in a depression
of the ground. We have seen above that these batteries started the can-
nonade which began the battle of the Marne. Marked down by the French
batteries, they hastilj' abandoned the position.

P0X1> wilt RE
THE GERMANS
THREW

THEIR SHELLS

y\osT\iY()\

leaving the pond on the rii/ld ivc folloiv the. road to tlir Icjl which brinr/s
us to the picturesque villar/e of Monthyon (15 km.).

Despite the diflerence in spelling, it was the patrimonial lief of the cele-
brated philanthropist Barnn de Alontyon (1733-1820), fonnder of several
prizes for good condnct and literature awarded yearly in solemn session by
the Institut de France.

We have seen that Monthyon, attacked without success on the 5th by the
French, was on the Gth abandoned by the Germans. General de Lamaze
established his headquarters there.

Arrived at the chiirih, I am to the rigid and descend towards the highway
from Saint-Souppldi, ;o Pcnchard

Halfwaj' down the slope we notice, on the left, a villa which overlooks
f 11 the countryside and where the French Staff had a first-rate observatory
during thos;} hard days of September.

The view below, taken from the upper ba'coiiy, shows a corner of the
vast panorama seen from there.

THF PLAIN
AT THE FOOT
OF MONTHTIIN

trirtaaBeaa

At tlie foot of the slope turn to I he right lowurds Pcnchard and follow the
railway lines on tlie road.

Two kilometres from there, on tlie left, an avenue planted with trees
leads to the Villa Autoimnk, belonging to M. Charles Benoist, member of
the Institut and deputy of Paris.

There the Germans installed an ambulance which received the wounded
of the first battles with the Moroccans at Penchard.

Those who succumbed, among them several officers, were buried in the
garden of the estate.

The Moroccans captured the ambulance when they retook possession of
Penchard.

The villa had been ransacked; the most highly appreciated trophy was
the owner's peaceful academician's sword.

.4^ tlic entrance to Penchard (19 km.), keep to the right as far as the Town-hall
Square, where the motor can be left.

By the road which skirts tlie Town-hall on tJie rigid (about IJO i/ds, from there
and going ])ast the churcli) we reach the edge of the Penchard woods where the
view on the following page was taken. The tourist who enters these woods
for a walk or a rest will find graves here and there, the last traces of the
furious battles that were fought there.

rKxciiAnn

Peiicluird was alt;uKcd tlic lir.^L lime on the oth of Seploiiiljer Ijy'Uie
.Moroccan brigade, whicii came from tiie Chauconin — Ncufmontieis line over
which the tourist has already travelled. The struggle was a desperate and
particularly bloody one on the edge of the wood where stands the reader,
as also in the gardens of the neighbouring houses. The Moroccans had the
advantage in this hand-to-hand f ght and towards noon succeeded in taking
the \illage. which they held for several hours under a violent Ijomliardmenl.

But we know that during this lime the aoth division's attack 'ui Monthvon

THr PLAIN
AT THE KJDT
OF PENCHARl)

liad failed and the Moroccans, unsupported on their left, had to withdraw'
beyond Chauconin — Xeufmontiers.

On the 6th, tlie brigade, renewing its efforts, found Penchard evacuated
and went on to the village of Chambry. towards \\hich the tourist will now
direct his steps.

When leaving Penchard the Germans posted several sjiies in the woods,
their m.ission being to signal the positions of the French troops and artillery
to the aviators.

On? of them was caught and shot at theenlrance to thewoodon liu' Sliiin
the evening. ITe wore the l^ed Cross annict. On him were fuuml pi-nuKiis and
rockets which he
used for signalling.

We m;st retrace
our steps as far as
the fork of the mad
at Ihe entrance to the
villa(;e and take the
road that runs tn ihe
ri.jht.

Immediately afl<'r
this we come to the
crossu'ays of three
roads; we follow the
middle one which
goes towards Cham-
bry.

We arrive at the
MoxuMEXT called
DES Qu.\TRE-RoL'TES bccause it is placed at

OM MtNT

1 THE

Jl R F.OAU3

the crossing of the IJarcv to

CIIAMP.nY

•A 1 Hid 1 n

(

r lUMONV

A-1

( HAMliUY

( /-;

tot 0 from

;•///,

1. -t ratio II. •

Mcaux road willi
I h a I I'ro 111 I'cii -
tluird to (".luiiiibry.
This iiiriiumient
was raised Ihy the
engineers, iiv order
of General Clallleni,
to the memory
of the Army of
1 aris.

Every year, com-
memorative cere-
monies take place
at Meaux and on
tlie nciiijliljouring
liattlelields. parti-
cLi'arly at the mo-
n u m e n t of the
Quatre-Roiitcs.
The opposite view
was taken in Sep-
tember 1916. The
bishop of Arras,
I\lgr Lobbedey, who
some honrs earlier
preached a touch
i n g s e_r m o n from
Bossuet's pulpit in
the Cathedral of
Meaux, is here seen
placing the trico-
lour flag at the foot of the .Moium.cnt.

Al the crossing of the Quatre-lioutrs, the tourist coming from Penchard
continues straight on to Chanibrij which is seen a little further on, in a hollow
(si'c photograph beloiv).

Chambry (22 km.) is one of the points of the French right where the fight-
ing was fiercest. It w'as taken and retaken during the days of the 6th,
7th and 8lh of September. Alternately bombarded by the French 75's
(which at Penchard and Wonthyon had taken the place of the German 77's,
driven from their first line) and by the light and heavy artillery that the
Germans had established on the heights of Varreddes and Gue-a-Tresmes,
Chambry, as seen by the great number of new roofs, suffered heavily.

The Germans were thrown back from the western ridge of the hollow into
the village, which they were forced to abandon after violent hand-to-hand
fighting in the streets. They then entrenched themselves on the east
flank and particularly in the cemeteiy, which is seen in the view- below.

r.iiA>rnr.Y

I (iMli
AT HIAMBUV

Driven Ironi Llic cemeLLTy, Ihcy Il'I! back on Llieir chief posilioii, visible
on tlie panorama B (p. U4). whence they made obstinate counter-attacks.
The soldiers of the 45th and 55Ui divisions fought lor the ground foot by
foot and linally remained masters of it, at the cost of heavy losses.
Zouaves, Algerian sharpshooters and foot-soldiers of the line vied with each
other in heroism during these terrible days.

Ifavitu/ entered Chambrij, ire cross the square leavinf/ the main street on tJie
left and (jo straiijht on. W'c thus turn round the village bj- the east, that
is to say on the front that had to withstand all the German onslaught.

The gardens which border the road contain several graves of soldiers who
were killed in battle and buried where they fell. The upper photograph
shows one of these graves. Some Algerian sharpshooters fell there, as
is indicated by the crescent drawn on the tomb-stone placed at the head of
the grave. The tricolour cockade ])inned below is that of "I'CEuvre du
Souvenir'".

On the slope of the road, to the right, the French troops had established
a trench and some precarious shelters visible on the photograph below.

This chance installation at the beginninu of the war contrasts oddly with
I he scientific work that the struggle on fixed positions has now made com-
mon. It seems as though it could not have afforded anything more than
moral in'ctection
against the German
artillery, which for
three days riddled
the position with
shells of 77, 105 and
even 150 calibre.

The road jolloived
bij the tourist rejoins
the main street, that
was on his le/t as he
entered the villafie.

400 yds. from I ere,
on the I it/ht, lies the
eemeterij of Cham-
bry. Near the en-
trance, on the left, is
a little chapel, whose
doors were riddled
with bullets. It served as a
filled up.

MIF.I.TMtS

1)1 RING

I Ht: bAlTI.K

lemi)()rary infn-mary but was very (juickly

cii.\miu;y

We have already seen Liu- ini])()iiaiue of Ihe position held ]>y Ihc Germans
in the cemetery.

Through embrasures pierced in the walls, rifles and machine guns directed
a fierce fire on the French troops as they advanced to attack, coming up
from Chambry and Barcy. When the latter had taken the cemetery, they
made uso of its defences in their turn. When the l)ombardment grew too
Aiolent; Zouaves and foolsoldiers took shelter in the trench outside the
cemetery walls, visible in the photograph on the following page. A goodly
number of these brave men remained there and took up the space that would
have sufficed for the dead of that small parish for many long years.

The cemetery of Chamhry has become a pilgrimage centre, livery year,
in the month of September, numerous delegations come to cover the little
graves with flowers. The photograph below was taken in 1915. In the
middle of the crowd can be distinguished in the foregroun:), kneeling and
leaning against the wire, JNIgr Chesnelong, archbishop of Sens; behind him
Mgr Marbeau, bishop of Meaux. The lieutenant seen on the left is the
Abbe Dugoux who had just celebrated mass in the Cathedral of .Meaux.

PATRIOTIC

CtRKMONY

Al HIAMBRV

l*}toto from
l'llhitir,'it!< „'

CHAMDRY

CHAXtBRT
CEMhIERV

On IcGvinij the Ccmctcrj, one sees in front, on the slope of the road, the
rcmanis of the trenches dug bj- the French to protect themselves against
counter-attacks from the heights of Varreddcs.

Following the road, one soon sees the harrowing sight of the Plateau
of Chambry — Barcj', covered with graves. On the right especially, in
l!e fields which were crossed by the troops rushing to the attack from
the hill visible on the photograph below, one can reconstitute the progression
of the lines under fire by glancing along the succession of graves.

The principal line cf the German defence during the days of the 7th. 8th
an 1 nth of September was established on a position leading from Etrepilly
to Varreddcs, well shown on panorama B (p. 95). The height shown on
the photograph below formed its southern extremity and its most salient
point. Trenches had been made there, supplied with machine guns and
supported by batteries of 77"s.

One realises what energy the French troops needed to advance thus over
absolutely uncovered ground, under dropping fire. Several attacks were
unavailing: one of them reached the trenches, but the Germans, who had
every facility for bringing up their reserves, which were kept sheltered
in the declivity on the other side of the hill, thrust the French back on
Chambry.

At last, on the 9th of September, the Germans having begun their
retreating movement. Zouaves, ^Moroccans and foot-soldiers hustled their
rearguards and descended in pursuit of them into the hollow of Varreddcs.

HciglKs of Vanc.l.lc-

91 BARCY

Conlinuini/ (n the same mad Ific loiirisl arrives at a bijanalion. lie 'joes to the le
This panorama shows the objective of tlie Frencli right (luring the days of tlie 7th, 8t

followed by a road bordered here and there with poplars. This road was filled with trenche

they could be reached.

The supporting artillery was in the middle distance, on the Trocy Plateau and the side

B. Panorama of thI

The 55th reserve division, the 45th Algerian division and the Moroccan brigade hurlec
attacked Etrepilly and the plateau which stretches to the north. The line fell on the 9th
divisions ") lay numbers of dead who were buried, some where they fell, others in comnior
this landscape of gentle undulations.

In th.' view below, taken in front of one («f these common graven on the
plateau, appears the then English premier, Mr. Asquith, who was anxious to
make the Ourcq pilgrimage during one of his visits to Paris. He is seen
standing on the right of the road, near the spot from where panorama B
was taken.

Arriving at Barcy (26 km.) the tourist will see the site of the great
commemorative monument which is to be raised by subscription after the
V ar. At the cross-roads near the entrance to the village, take the middle
road which goes through Barcy and leads to the church.

It was in the little square, opening out in front of the belfry and the
town-hall, that the second photograph (reproduced on tlie following page) v;as
taken, showing Mr. Asquith interrogating a li tie village girl ( ome to fetch
water from the fountain.

MK. ASQUITH

VISITING

THE

BATTLEFIELD

.aiiSifjiiWflS^lglflWt

ards Barcij and soon comes to a group o[ poplars, whence the panorama B (bcloiv) was lakcn.
[ 9th of September. This was the little rid<;!e which runs between Etre[ illy and Varreddes,
i machine guns which easily swept the uncovered ground that had to be crossed before

he Varreddes hollow.

iiiige from Kircpillj lo Varrcdilc^- Vanclilci R.ail

icir.selves against this redoutable position for three days, while the ."ifilh reserve di ision
it over the whole surface of this plain (wliich has been called " the Calvary of the reserve
aves. Ihese graves with their flags waving in the wind give a veritable grandeur to

Behind the fountain stands Colonel Ilankey, secretary of the Allies' \Var
Council; beside him is the French officer who directed and expounded the
visit; Mr. Asquith is in the middle; to the right his son-in-law, and in
the extreme right ^Ir. O'Brien, Sir Edward Grey's colleague.

On the 4th of September Barcy was the headquarters of a German divi-
sion. A few people, among them the brother of the bishop of Meaux, had
been arrested near \'arreddes, in jNIgr Marbcau's car and taken before the
General. This latter, announcing that he meant to keep their car, told
them to inform the inhabitants of i\Ieaux that on the morrow^ at the same
hour, his troops would be before Paris. But on the morrow Maunoury's
army had begun its flank attack and the day after that (the 6th) in
the morning, Barcy was carried by the Frcncli troops arriving from
Monthyon.

MR. ASQUITH

QUESTIONING
A LITTLE GIRL

liAltLV (ill lU 11

Barcj' served as slaiting point for the assaults on Clianibry and on the
line of defence of Etrepiliy — Varreddes; very often also as a place for dcfen-
siv." withdrawals. The fightinif was desperate : on the 6th of September the
'246th had nearly twenty ohicers, including the Colonel, out of action; the
289th went up to the assault three times at the end of the day.

For tiiree days the bombardment was terrific : the batteries of Etr(;pilij',

Varreddes and G u e - a -

Tresmes rained shells on the

village and its approaches.

BARrv,HiR(ii ^le^^^^^^^H^^^^ ;^^^gafi^H The church suffered

heavily, as shown by the
photograplis' on this page.
In the upper one is seen th?
hole made by the heavy pro-
jectile wliich brought down
the bell shown in the fore-
ground of the second pho-
tograph. Many houses, like
those on the church sc]uare,
still bear traces of the can-
nonade.

Others, less heavily dam-
aged, have been repaired.
Indeed, to look at the farm
sleeping in the sunshine, as
shown in the view on the
following page, one would
never dream that it had
lived through such tragic
chns.

The new roofing of the
building en the left is all
there is to remind one that
it was not spared by the
shells.

MAllCILLY

Following the road by V^^fr
which we arrived at tin'
church, we go towards Mar-
cilhj.

Before leaving Barcj',
we pass the cemetery
where are buried many
officers and men who fell
in the neighbourhood of
the village.

The Germans entered
Marciliy on the evening
of September 4 th and
abandoned it on the 6th,
in fear of the outflank-
ing movement of the 7lh
corps towards the north.

The village was the cen-
tre of operations for the

5C)th reserve division. The photograph below shows General de Dartein's
temporary headquarters beside a haystack, not far from the village,
whose church can be seen in the background.

The tourist will have an occasion of seeing the objectives of the division
in detail when passing through Champfleury, Poligny, and l':irepilly. The
struggle was very fierce and the bombardment incessant for three days.

T!ie mad crosses Marcillij but we do not go bcijond the church, which is a
very curious one, with its squat tower a;id rustic porch (see following page).
Beside it is the school where a light infantry sergeant, mortally wounded,
still found strength enough to write on the blackboard : " The 2.3rd bat-
tahonLight Infantry, the 350th Infantry and the 361st Infantry have beaten
the Prussians here. Vive la France! "

The few inhabitants who remained in the village also remember
one of the prisoners brought to the Fernet Farm, whose torn tunic gave
glimpses of a woman's chemise, trimmed with lace and little blue ribbons.

From the church square we turn back about 100 yds. and take, on the left,
the road to F.trcpilly.

At the end of the village is a gr.wk where foot-soldiei's, light infantry and
aitillerymen are buried, — see photograph on following page.

GENERAL

DE dartein's

TEMPORARY

HEADQIARTEBS

AT MARCILLY

MARCILLY

GRAVES
AT MARCILLY

(in 1917)

ipp?^^

liM^dkl

IV^tL^ A*

' / *^

^■-l

Bf^ -

" jj'^Blw •Ctaj

■Tiiiiiii 1 -f

iaii4toi

^^^HJ^ii^A^

•^^5^BH

■■

■

MARCILLY
CHURCH

U'c soo/; arrive at the top of the
ridge which dominates Marcitlij.

Turning round, the tourist will
have a wide view of Barcy, Mon-
thyon and Penchard; passing to the
other side of tlie ridge he will see,
an the left, the prominent farms of
Champfleury and Nongloire.

The view below was taken during the
battles of September in a field on the
right of the road. We see a whole
section, which thought itself in
safety behind a haystack,
destroyed by the explosion of a shell.

SECTION

DECIMATED

BY A SHELL

CHAMPFLEURY

FROM MARCILLY TO ETREPILLY (45 km.)

via PuisiEUX, NoGEOx, Acy, Etavigny, Betz, Acy, Vincy

Etrepilly is 4 km. from Marciliy by tlie direct route, but we take the
tourist round a loop of 45 km. before reaciiing Etrepilly, so that he may
visit the front of the French left wing.

Arrioing al a beetroot factor/}, we come to a fork in the road and take the left
hand branch. Around this factory desperate battles were fought between the
troops of the .5Gth reserve division (who, masters of Marciliy, were trying
to take Etrepilly) and the Germans who defended this advance guard of
their main position foot by foot.

The road crosses the Thcronanne ; 50 yds. farther on, at the cross-roads,
we take the road on the right which rises towards the Farm of Champneury
(.5 km.). From this front, extending from the factory to the Champfleury
farm, the 56th division made many attacks on the strong lin-^ formed by
]-:trepilly and the plateau whicli spreads out north of the village, and shat-
tered all the German counter-attacks.

CHAMPFl F.LRT
FARM

Champfleury, very important by reason of its dominating position (as show-
in the above photograph), was vigorously defended but, after two unsuc-
cessful assaults, it was finally carried by the French. There they were
subjected for two days to a violent bombardment from Etrepilly, \'incy
and Trocy, which made all their attempts to debouch both difficult and costly.

The farm buildings suffered badly and the rooms of the farm-house were
reduced to ruins by shells.

The view below shows the facade; the officers seen in the photograph
belonged to the staff of the oGth division who took the farm. The farmers
had evacuated Champfleury at the beginning of Stptembcr; when they return-
ed they found in the billiard room (which was smashed to pieces) a
jeering inscription signed by a German officer, regretting that
they (the farmers)
had not been there
to take part in
the cannoning
performed on their
table.

To enter the farm
follow a little lane on
the right for about
100 yds. It is very
likely still possible
to see the various
seats hidden in
the trees in the
garden, which were
used by the look-
out men.

CHAMPFLEURY
I ARM

100

PUISIEUX

Fram Champflcurij the road descends towards Puisieux. The view below
shows the situation ol this village, in a fold of the ground. In the background,
at the summit of the plateau, is seen the farm of Nogeon, which will be
visited in the course of the excursion.

On the tourist's left, outside the limits of the photograph, is a depression
beyond which, in a position symmetrical with Champfleury (see panorama D,
p. HI) appears the farm of Nongloire.

From the plateau on which this farm slands the I'rench artillery ham-
mered Champfleury and the Etrepilly position.

PUISIEUX

SEEN FROM

CHAMPI I.LURY

On the right, also outside llie i)h()tograph, is the farm of Poltgny,
towards which we go, turning to tlw right, in Puisieux, into the rue de Polignij.
The view below was taken from the Poligny road in September 1914. In
it are seen guns, cartridges, and machine-gun belts abandoned on the battle-
field, and a French drum, which latter doubtless sounded thechargewhen the
troops of the 7th corps, starting from Puisieux, went to attack the farm,
supported by the 56th division coming down from Champfleury.

Thestruggle was desperate, for Poligny, like Champfleury, was an advanced
position of the Yincy — Etrepilly line, and the Germans defended it to
the utmost. Before leaving they set it on fire.

DEBRIS 01 THE

BATTLE IN

IRONT

OF PUISIEUX

101

The view below siiows lo wliaL a lanicnlablc coiulilion this lar^c farm was
reduced by bombardment and incendiarism.

Only a part of the courtyard can be seen here but all the buildings belong-
ing to the farm, including the beetroot factory, are in the same state.

From Poligny, the Germans fell back on their positions on the Etrepilly
Plateau, which is in the backgr und of llie ])holograph, and the farm became
a valuable point of support for the 7lh French corps.

POLIGNY
FARM

The German battery defending Poligny could not withdraw in its entirety;
the fire of the French To's destroyed at least one of the field pieces, of which
a photograph is given below.

After this visit the tourist will return to the Piiisien.v road {S r, km.) following
the road he came by, and cross (lie pillage bij an S-shaped route, leaving the
church on the right.

On the French front Puisieux formed the connecting point between the
right (group I.amaze) and the centre (7th corps). It received many shells
from the batteries of 77's established on the Viticy— Klr^pil'y line and from
the heavy howitzers of the Trocv Plateau.

GERM AX
FIELD PIECE
DESTROYED
J.EAR POLIGNY

102 NOGEON

Having passed the chiircli, llie tourist arrives at a lillle square, ivith several
roads opcninrj into it. He taJ<cs the one on the right which leads him to tlie
plateau that dominates Puisieux on the north. On the left can he seen
the distillery of Fosse-Martin; straight ahead is the No^^eon l-'arni with its
beetroot factory.

West of Fosse-Martin; in a room in the Castle of Bregy, the flag of the
72nd, Thuringian regiment was found, abandoned

XOOliOX FARM

The French artillery, installed between Fosse-Martin and IJouillancy
maintained a terrific fight against the German batteries at Etavigny, Vincy
and Trocy. Colonel Nivelle, future Generalissimo, commanded the 5th
artillery regiment which had just done great deeds in Alsace and whose
daring and enthusiasm shone forth anew on the plateau of Multicn.

CHlRtH OF ACV

(I'huUjhy M. jr.)

Nogeon Farm was one of the principal centres
of baltle during the days of the Gth to the yth
of September. Taken by the French after a
hand-to-hand fight, it was subjected to several
counter-attacks supported by violent bombard-
ments which completely destroyed it ; but la-
bour soon claims its rights and the view above
shows the rebuilding in progress.

From Nogeon, and the trenches around it.
the troops of the 7th corps gained Acy and
attempted to reach Vincy. The progression
towards this last position, over open ground
swept by an intense cannonade, was particu-
larly difficult. Many actions took place at
night. It was during one of these, in a bayo-
net charge on the 7th of September, that the
soldier Guillemard, having transpierced the olTi-
cer standard-bearer, captured a flag belonging to
the 36th Magdebourg fusiliers, decorated with
the iron cross in 1870. Guillemard received
the Military medal from the hands of General
Gallieni.

The young fellow shook with emotion during
the ceremony and the General said good-humour-
edly : " Now then, embrace me and imagine I'm
a pretty girl. "

ACY

From Nogcon,
the road descends
to Acy-en-IVIultien
(14 '., km.) of which
the slender steeple
can be seen.

We cross the G er-
go (j ne and go
through the village,
following the High
Street up to the
XII th and xiiith
century church,
which is classed as
an historical monu-
ment. This church
came practically
unscathed through
the struggle which
drenched the village_with_blood.

Acy's situation in the hollow of a valley
robbed its steeple of all value as an obser-
vatory, it was therefore respected by the ar-
tillery on both sides.

After glancing around the interior of the
old church, with its squat pillars, shown in
the above view, we go on along the High Street,
passing the Town-hall.

Opposite is a photograph of the Town-hall
safe which was blown up by the Germans
during their occupation of the place.

A little further on is the cemetery, in front
of which is a big military grave.

Acy's church-yard was much too small
to hold all the heroes who fell on the terri-
tory belonging to that parish.

In front of the cemetery, on the other side
of the road, stands the castle where the Ger-
mans quartered themselves.

The view opposite only gives a slight idea
of the state in which it was found by its
owners.

The park was
placed in a state
of defence and the
Germans made a
tenacious resis-
tance there.

The tourist will
now take the road
in front of the ceme-
tery, which skirts
the castle railings;
he will then turn
to the left and
follow the zigzag
road which climbs
the fAavigny Pla-
teau.

ROOM

IX THE CASTLE

WHtRE

THE GERMANS

SLEPT

104

ACY

SEEN FROM THE

HEIGHTS or

ETAVUiN V

ETAVIGNY
CHURCH

The above panorama was taken from the last turn of the chnibing path
and gives a good view of tlie valley in which Acy is built.

Here we can follow the course of the battle : the French held
the Nogeon Plateau, the Germans the valley and the heights where
stands the tourist. Troops belonging lo the 7th corps descended on
Acy from Nogeon and came up in front of the village, others slipped
along the Gergogne and made a flank attack.

After furious fighting in the
streets, in the castle grounds and
in the little woods on the h.illsldes,
the Germans w'ere flung back from
Acy on to the heights of Etavl-
gny. They returned to the charge
and in their turn drove the French
back to the Nogeon Plateau.

The village thus changed hands
several times and this terrible beat-
ing backwards and forwards caused
great losses on both sides.

Continuing his road to I'ilavigmj
the tourist will go over the position
that the Germans established on tiie
plateau.

The infantry and the machine
guns were entrenched along the
road itself; the light and heavy
artillery were in the hollow on the
right. They showered shells on the
French positions at Nogeon and in
return received the fire of the bat-
teries placed, as mentioned before,
between Fosse-Martin and Bouil-
lancy.

Arriving at Etavigny (18 km.)
one's attention is at once drawn
to the church, which suffered ter-
ribly.

KTAVIGXY

105

Tlic part played in Uie
battle by the clmrch of
Etavigny was very difTe-
rent from the passive one
assigned to the church
of Acy. Its dominating
position afforded price-
less views of the French
lines to the observer in-
stalled in its steeple. It
was therefore by shells
from the 75's that the
church was damaged as
shown in the views on pa-
ges 104 and 105.

ittavigny was taken and
retaken in the course of
the battle of the Ourcq.
The struggle was hard,
the Germans making a
desperate resistance, as a
serious French advance in
this locality would have
meant the outflanking
of their whole line. They
succeeded in forcing the
troops of the 7th corps
olf the plateau.

Taking the road on the
right, beside the church, about 200 yds. further on we come to the cemetery,
which is in a state of upheaval from the bombardment. The photograph
below was taken through one of the gaps.

The windmill pump, on the left of the view, was riddled with bullets.

From Etavignij the tourist can either return to Acy by the same road or
follow the itinerary that we now give which forms a loop around the northern
part of the battlefield. In the first case, the distance to Acy is -3 'j Ay?!., in the
second, 14 km.

Starting again from the church along the road which crosses the village, continue
straight on towards Boullare. In this loccdity keep turning to the left and
take the road to Betz. In the hollow on the left were placed the German
batteries which joined in action with those of Etavigny.

The road descends into a rather picturesque valley. Through it runs a little
river, the Grivelle, which
we cross, then go through A /!-
tilly, turning to the right
on entering and to the left
at the fork in the road just
after leaving the village.
We arrive at Betz (26 km.)
Turn to the left near the
church.

Betz did not sufTcr much
from the guns but some of
its houses were burnt by
the Germans, notabh' the
hotel du Cheval blanc.
shown in the view on
page 106 and which can
still be recognised by its
signboard.

havi(;ny

CliURlH

ETAVIGST
CHURCH
SKEN FROM
THt LLMETtRV

106

HOTEL

CHEVAI. BLANC

AFTER I UK FIRE

The Castle was
occupied by a Ger-
man headquarters
staff, who left it in
a deplorable state.
Durint; the pur-
suit the French offi-
cers had to abandon
the idea of lodging
there : one of them
records in his note-
book : " The Ger-
man officers have
left disgusting traces of their passage; we see slices of melon, bearing the
marks of their teeth, in the washhandbasins and enormous heaps of empty
and broken wine bottles. "

The tourist will cross Betz by the main street, which appears in the above
illustration ; at the further end oj tlie village he will go straight on and under
the railway, leaving the road to Nanteuil-le-Haudouin on the right.

This last named town has not been included in the itinerary, although
it played an important part in the ultimate manoeuvre attempted by von
Kliick, that of outflanking the French left wing. The paved road which
leads to it is bad and the other roads by which one could rejoin the planned
route are extremely rough. Below, we give a view of a corner of this
battlefield. It gives some idea of the great plain which extends from
Betz to Nanteuil, where the 7th and 61st French divisions resisted with
desperate energy the furious attacks of the IVth German corps. The dead
horses seen in the photograph belonged to a French battery. The 75's,
fully exposed, supported the foot-soldiers in their efforts almost until they
came into actual contact with the enemy.

After passing under the railwaij the road rises to the plateau and soon brings
us near a commemorative monument, on the right (view on following page).
Tl\en through the woods of Montrolles, where the 61st division particularly
distinguished itself on the evening of the 8th of September. Worn out with
fatigue, its reserve supplies exhausted two days before, it yet, by a supreme
effort, succeeded in driving back Ihc Germans.

THE PLAlX
OP NANTEUIL-
LE-HAUDOUIN

107

L' ';tlh of Seplein-

Ilaviiifj passed [hroiif/li
the woods of MoniroUcs, „.- . MDNiMt.sr

we soon come to a fori; ll£- 1 a i bltz

and take the road on the
left.

On the right are ti.e
heights of Eouillancy,
where the French artil-
lery was placed; on the
left the plateau of Eta-
vigny 0:1 which were t\v:
German batteries.

A hollow, where lUiis
a river, separates the Iw.i
positions, between which
the artillery' duel was in-
tense, preparing and ac-
companying infantry as-
saults which_succeeded onejiiintln.i iium Ihe bLii lu Ih
ber with alternate advances and retirements.

The road then returns to Acij, skirting the wall of the Castle park. We
again pass the church and, on leaving the village, cross the Gergogne. Imme-
diatehj after the bridge turn to the left towards Vincy (35 ^ km.)- The photo-
graph below shows that this village also suffered from incendiarism and
bombardment.

After havi g crossed straight through Yincy, bear to the left in order to pass
in front of the Mana'uvre distillery, leaving the hamlet of that name on the
left and reaching Etrepilly (41 km.) by the middle road of the crossways,
which are about 1 km. further on past the distillery.

This Vincy — Etrei:illy line formed part of the defensive front established
by the Germans west of the Ourcq, marked out further north by the localities
of Betz, Etavigny and Acy, which have just been visited, and, more to the
south, by the position seen on panorama B (p. 91). The Germans had made
trenches and machine gun shelters over the whole plateau, which stretches
on the right of the road towards the farms of Poligny and Champfleury. On
the right slope of the road one can still see the dug-outs where the snipers
sheltered themselves.

The position was attacked from the 6lh to the 9th of September by the
03rd Division of the 7th corps and the 5Gth of the Lamaze group which
carried the advance positions constituted by the farms of Nogeon, Poligny
and Champfleury. but were stopped on the line itself until the general
withdrawal of the Gerinan troops.

Bt RNT FARM
.\T VINCV

lOS

KTRi;PII,I,Y

To reach the spot loltcrc Ihc view bchnv was lakcn, joUow the dark which I ranches ojj lit:
wc sec acros-> the middle of the jxmnrania. The lourist finds himself al tlie soulhcrn exlre-
treated by the French 75's.

C. Panorama of Trocy,

In (he Lackgronnd is seen the, Trocy platean, separated from Ihe road jjy a hollow, in
will in dne course lead the reader, the Germans had establishe:! their piwcrful artilltry com-
Barcy, taking in Puisieux and Marcilly. Beyond the valley of the Therouanne, south of Etre-
view extends lo the wooded heights of Penchard, which are outlined against the horizon.

MLMOKIAI,
AT LI HIFII 1 V

On the brow of the hill where stands the observer fierce battles were
fought at the time of the attacks on Ktrepilly. The 3f)0th infantry did
once make their way into the village, following the valley of the Therouanne.
on the morning of the 7th, but violent counter-attacks forced them back.
They returned to the charge at night and climbed from the river's edge
lo the plateau. They were greeted l)y the fire of a machine gun section
upon wluch two companies flung themselves with fixed bayonets. Two
lield-iiieces were taken. The French troops maintained their position
until 10 in the evening but finally, as the German reinforcements poured
in, were obliged to redescend the slope and cross back to the right bank
of the Therouanne.

Returning to the fi.trepilUj road we pass in front of the .Memorial raised
by the engineers in front of the cemetery, at the place where the battles
of Etrepilly reached their climax. A military grave has been made behind
the Memorial.

The Germans had entrenched themselves in the cemetery, where they
succeeded in checking the night attack made by the Zouaves on the 7th

of September. The
2nd regiment, com-
ing from Barcy,
reached the village
and carried it at
the point of the
bayonet.

Without stop-
ping, the Zouaves
b e'g a n to cl i m b
tha height at the
foot of which £ta-
\ igny is built.

KTRKPII.LY

109

road from Vine/ lo Ii'.r.'pillij. bcliu^en the McrrDrial and the burnt shed. This is the road
mity of the Vine y — Etrepillj' position, on the site of a German iKittery which was severely

Vallev oi (he Tlicruuan

Iliiigh'.s Ml rciicliarJ

EXRhPILLY, LA TliKltUU ANNE.

which flows a tributary of the Tlierouume. On the Trocy plateiu, where this itinerary
posed of heavy and light batteries which swept the whole battlefield from Nogeon Farm to
pilly, stretches the position of which the details appear in Panorama B (page 94). The

Their rush carried them as far as the cemetery, met tliere by a terrific fire
from the machine guns they tried to keep the position, but German
reinforcements having come up, they were forced to abandon the plateau,
evacuate the village and return to their trenches at Barcy. Lieutenant-
Colonel Dubujadoux, commanding the regiment, was killed; three-fourths of
the ofTicers and half the efTective force fell in the course of this heroic
charge.

Ill front of the Memorial the twisted metal framework of a burnt shed is
to be seen. According to certain accounts, the Germans, before evacuating
the position on the 9th of September, used this shed to burn the bodies of
those of their soldiers who fell in the battles of Ktrepilly. Some of the inha-
bitants say that to these were added the badly wounded, whose hurts were
such that they could not be removed.

We believe, as a matter of fact, that a large pyre of corpses was set alight
here by the Germans, who generally burn their dead when they cannot carry
them away, but the hangar was destroyed liy the Trench artillery wliich fired
repeatedly on that
sideof theplateau at
the 77 battery in-
stalled there, at the
cemetery and at the
German trenches.

In the cemetery
lie the heroes who
were killed in at-
tempting to regain
it.

From the ccmekrij
the road descends to-
wards EtrepiUij.

110

ETKKPILLY

Turn to the right atjhe foot of the slope into Etrepillij and on leaving the village take thr
plateau. After a few hundred yards the rigid slope disappears. It was at this point tliat
French side in Panorama B (p. 94).

Heights Heigh IS

of Ptrnchard Muiilhyon Burcy uf Cuisy

^v^f:^ ,4^

D. i'ANDHA.MA Ol- 1111. liATTLEFIELD

The road on which the tourist stands goes on to the heights of Varreddes. Bordered
south of Etrcpilly, tlie advance Unes resting thus : the first on I^enchard — IMonthyon
of operations fought : — south of the Marcilly — Etrepilly road — the 55tli reserve division,'
J^trepilly, wliicli is outlined on the extreme right of the panorama, crowned by the

A l.URNI.H

OK Tin;

B.VTTLtFIEI I)

Leaving the trenches hastily dug on the Chambry — Barcy — factory of
INIarcilly hue, the troops of the LnniLize group, Ijcfore getting up to the
German trenches, had to cross two kilometres of uncovered ground, under
terrible fire. 1l was in one of these attacks, starting from Barcy, that
Major d'Urbal (brother of the genera!) fell at the head of his Zouaves as
he drew them along, waving his cane. He was brought back lo the French
lines, thanks to the devotion of one of the few officers who survived the
attack, helped by two Chasseurs d'Afrique. Because of his great height
the Comn ander's bodj^ could not l)e carried back, and they were obliged
to place it on a horse; th.c group returned thus to Barcy under a hailstorm
of bullets. A shellhole in the cemetery served for a grave.

ETRHPILLY

111

road on the left ; cross the rirer, turn again to the Icjt and jollow tlic track which climbs the
Panorama D was taken, showing, from the Gorman side, the battlefield seen from the

Facliiiy
al MiUT.lly

I;o;iil finm Marcilly farm
lo lil]e|Mlly 'oi Njngl..

Farm
I'f Cliainpflcury

OF THE French iught.

with trenches and machine guns, it constituted the principal line of tho German defence
-heights of Cuisy; the second on Chambry — Barcy — Marcilly. On this theatre
the 4r>th division and the Moroccan brigade; at .Marcilly and on the plateau north of
Champlleury Farm, the 56th reserve division.

A CORNER
OF THE
BATTLEFIELD

In the counter-attacks, the Germans as they left their trenches also
suffered serious losses, as one can judge from the preceding photograph,
wl ich was taken in front of the position.

The tourist will take the road Iw ccm\e bij tn return lo Etrepilhj ; leaving
the church {the roof oj which was hit bij screral shells) on the right and taking
theTrocy road on the lejt.

112

ETREPILLY TO IVIEAUX (I'J kill.)
Via TrOCY, GUK-A-TlSESMIiS, ^'ARrvEDDES

FARM 1 MAT
^\ AS SH.I.I.KD

The beautiful, shady road thai h-ads from Elrej.ilhj to Tiocij first crosses

a hollow then winds up the hillside to llir plateau on which Trocy is built

(3 km.) On arriving turn
to llie left and so enter tlie
heart of the viHar/e.

Trocy did not actually
sufTer from the German
attacks, but it was bom-
barded by the French
artillery. In front of
the horse-pond, on the
left of the little church,
stands a farm (view
opposite) which in 1917
still showed traces of the
75' s which damaged its
roof. Other houses were
completely destroyed.

The Germans had con-
centrated their chief ar-
tiUery forces on the

Trocy plateau. Heavy and light batteries were in position north and

south of the village, the greater part north, between Manoeuvre, Plessy-

Placy and Trocy.

The intense cann:)na le poured from this dominating platform very much

hampered the French in their progression on all the centre of the front.
The position was evacuated by the Germans on the 9th, not without

serious losses of light artillery, as shown by the photograph below and that

at the top of the following page.

GERMAN (iUX
DHSTRdVKl)

T.^Of.V PLAILAQ

113

GERMAN GUNS
DESTROYED ON
TROCT PLATEAU

The limber, (shown below), abandoned at the side of the road, is an
infantry limber whicli contained rifle and machine-gun cartridges.

The French artillery which swept the plateau hit it in the course of the
retreat.

GERMAN LIMBER

TROCY PLATEAU

114

GUK-A-TKESMES

GATE
OFTROCT

!**'*''*MM«maM|iM[^M'««R^

'■M^f^aHL, ■ •'

THE

3II,LIARD-TABLK

THE CHATF.Ar

Rounding the horse-pond, we lake the road which runs under thr monumental
galewajj, a view of which is given above.

This gate is one of the cliief remains of the fortifications which guarded
Trocy in the Middle Ages.

It will be seen that the strategic importance of the position has at all times
been appreciated at its full value.

Having passed through the gale, we lake, 100 ijds. further on, to the left,
the road lliat dips into a hollow, on tlie opposite slope of which stands out the
fine farm of Beauvoir.

We reach this farm bij a zigzag ascent which comes out on tlie route Nalionale

(N. 36). We then turn to the right and go down towards Gue-a-Tresmes

This little place played the part, in relation to the extreme German left'

that Trocy played in the centre. It was a heivy artillery positi jn supporting

th ' advanced line of defence.

At the entrance to the village, on the left side of the road, is a large residence
surrounded by a park. It was occupied by the Germans and converted
into a field hospital. In order to make room rapidly, the furniture was

flung outside. It was thus
that the billiard-table was
found in the park. A soldier
who was evidently a lover
of fresh air used it as a
shelter. On the opposite
photograph can be seen the
fish-kettle which did duty
as a basin, frequent wash-
ing being indispensable
during those hot September
dnys.

The facade shown in the
view is the one which faces
the road.

GUi:-A-Tr.i~.SMi;s

115

A certain number
of German wound-
ed died in the liospi-
tal and were buried
in tlie .garden ; tlieir
belongings were left
behind at the time
uf the retreat, as
shown in the oppo-
site photograph.

This retreat must
have taken the oc-
cupants unawares,
for a meal was on
the officers' table
when the French
troops entered the
Chateau.

At the cross-roads, about -300 yds. ajtcr the Chateau, go to the left, along the
Therouanne ; 200 yds. jiulher along this road is seen (on the right) the place
where a group of German artillery was hidden. Well-screened in the hollow
shown in the view below, several heavy batteries, for a long time out of
reach of the 75's, made the advance of the French right on the plateau of
("hambry — Barcy extremely difficult. They also hampered the left of
Ihe British army and the 8th French division on the left bank of the
.Marne. In the course of this tour, we have already seen several exam-
ples of the installation of German batteries. Wherever the ground allowed
of it, the guns were placed in a hollow, visible only to aerial observers. Tele-
phones linked them with the posts established on the ridges whence the
firing was directed.

Returning to the route natinnale, turn to the left towards Varreddcs. On
both sides of the road which was their main waj' of retreat, the Germans
had made lines of defence : trenches were dug and furnished with machine
guns, and light batteries were established as supports.

The whole, which joined up with the defence works of Trocy, constituted
a position of \\ithdrawal for the Etrepilh' — Varreddes line, seen on pano-
rama B (p. 94). This was the lirst stage of the retreat on the 9th of Sep-
tember.

PLRSONAL
BLLON'GINGS
I. EFT AT
GUE-A-TRESMES
BV THE GERMANS

HOLLOW WHERE
THE GERMAN
ARTILLERY
WAb PLACED

116

V\RREUUES

This panorama was taken at the intersection of the .Meaux to Soissons road (X 36) anc
machine guns were established, sweeping the I'oute Nationale and the bottom of the hollow

Varreddes Koad from Meaux to Suissiins

The Ourcq Canal

E. Panorama of th

It is easy to understand why the Germans attached so much importance to the Varredde
The slopes west of the hollow (they form the background on the left of the panorame

protection the Germans could easily bring up supplies or relieve the defenders on th

general trend of the action forced them to fall back.

After having examined Panorama E, continue the descent towards Varreddes
{12 km.). Before crossing the canal, on the right, one can see a 75 shell which
has remained fixed in the wall of an inn, of which the sign has now become :
,, A I'obus ".

We now enter the High Street of Varreddes.

At the entrance of the village are a certain number of houses that were
damaged by the bombardment.

The German wounded, forsaken during the hasty retreat of September 9th,

were sheltered and

GERMAN

WOUMU-li

IN FRiiN 1

OF VARREDDI s

TOWN-HALL

nursed at the town-
hall. They are seen
in the opposite
view. When leav-
ing the village the
Germans took twen-
ty hostages with
them, all very old,
among them the
vicar.

Three succeeded
in escaping, but for
the others the re-
treat proved (as will
be seen) a veritable
torture. Seven of
them were mur-
dered

VARREDDES

117

a track which leads to £trepilly, hi the fiehi which overhangs the road and where German
with their fire.

Boad to Etr^iiill;

Varkeddes HOLLUW.

position.

were protected from the blows of the jFrenrh artillery; by availin.a themselves of this

crests, lacing Chambry— Barcy, which ensured their resistance until the moment when the

On the first day tliey were forced to march 17 miles. .M. Jourdain, aged 77
and M. Milliardet, aged 78, taken away with only slippers on their feet,
were the first to fall from exhaustion; they were shot point-blank. Soon
after M. Vapaille suffered the same fate.

The next day, M. Terre, an invalid, fell and was killed with revolver-
shots; M. Croix and M. Lievin stumbled in their turn and were also shot.

All three were from 58
to 64 years of age. Finally.
M. Mesnil, aged 67, utterly
exhausted, gave up; his
skull was smashed in with
blows from the butt-end of
a rifle.

The other hostages, better
able to endure, held on as
far as Chauny and were sent
thence to Germany by rail.
They were repatriated five
months later.

A f!er having traversed Var-
reddes and before re-crossing
the canal a tree will be no-
ticed on the left of the road
(the .38th on the way out)
which has been pierced by
a 75 shell as by a punching-
press.

118

MEAUX

Bri'lge of r.ermignj-l'Kvec,'

I'ANORAIMA OF THE VARREDDES HOLLOW

40 ijds. i)as[ llw canal, on the ritjhi. are seen sei eral traeks irhich scale the
heights. Wc climb the on" on the right up to the summit, where the above
panorama was taken, giving a view of the Varreddes hollow in the opposite
direction to that of panorama E (p. 116).

Germigny, seen on the right of the photograph, is known through having
been Bossuet's summer residence. The Germans had a heavy battery there,
which l;ombarded Meaux in the early days of September. On the 8th they
recrossed the iMarne, blowing up the bridge behind them.

The appearance of a French re:onnoitring party composed of a sergeant-
n'ajor and nine men had sulTiced to cause the evacuation of the position,
which, with the river behind it, seemed a dangerous one. These ten heroes
were killed in the course of the battle and buried at Germigny. On the
9th, the Marne was crossed on a pontoon bridge built under fire by
British engineers, whose heroic tenacity triumphed after seventeen fruitless
attempts.

The Germans, attacked besides on the heights where stands the tourist,
were obliged to retire rapidly from the hollow by the Soissons road, under
fire from the French batteries.

On the crest of the hill a track crosses the ascending one near two isolated
walnut-trees. On the right this road goes to Etrepilly : it constituted the
German line of defence which is the subject of panorama B (p. 94).

The tourist will go to the left between the two walnut-trees and explore
the crest which formed the redoubtable position occupying the background
of the \iew on page 93. It was well provided with trenches, machine guns
and light batteries, and all attacks against it failed, until the 9th of Sep-
tember.

Turning again to the left (1 km. further on) at the first fork in the road., the
reader will folloiv a Utile path luhieh iiill bring him back to the route nationale
at the point where he left it. The walk takes about 30 minutes. The two paths
by which the ascent and descent have been made served the Germans as
channels for bringing up supplies. Their rearguard, which disputed the
ground foot by foot, was routed there by a bayonet attack.

We now return towards Meauv. The retreating Germans followed this
road, in a contrary direction, pursued by the French shells.

At the highest point, on the right, is seen the trunk of a tree decapitated
by artillery fire, at the top of which the navvies of the entrenched camp of
I'aris have fixed a branch, so as to form a cross : humble and touching tribute
to the brave men killed in going up to the attack.

Before arriving at Meaux we have a beautiful view of tlie town. We pass
under the railway; then, on the right, take the N. 3 or rue du Fuubourg-Saint-
Nicolas, which brings us back to the Cathedral (19 km.).

INDEX OF NAMES AND LOCALITIES

OF MILITARY INTEREST

MENTIONED IN THIS WORK

The figures in heavy type indicate [he pages on which there are illustrations.

Pagc-

Acy-en-Multipu . . 10, 12. 102 to 104, 107

AUpnbv 'lleneivil o

Asqultii 94, 95

Karcv. HI. 11. 94 to 97, lus to II 1, Uo, 117

Baron 70, 71

Bergcr (Klio; 2S

Betz l.i. 105 to 107

Boello (rJpiirral; >, 13

Bore.st 7

Bouinancy 102. 104 107

Boullarre 1 05

Bregy 10-'

Bre.sies fi

Ch.iali.s 72 to 75

Chaniant l,G.51,ii2 68

Chambrv. 10, U, 89 to 93, OG. 110, 111,

11.1, 117

Champfleury (Farm) . 97 to 100, 107, 111

Ohangis 'J

ChantUly H, 21 to 36

Charny 'J

Chauconin 84 to 8J

Ohoisy-pu-Brie 10, 11

Clermont (j

Coulonnniprs Olo 11

Crecy-en-Brie 10

Creil" 0

CuUy U.i, lU

Danimartin-en-(4oele 8

Dartt-in 'Upneral <Ip) . ... I, 7, U, 87

Dpprez 'General; 4

Ditte i'General 4. 8

Dourlent (.Vbbej 48 to 50

Drude (General) J. 14

Dubujadoux (Lieut. Col 109

Ebener (General 4

Ecouen 8

Erraenonville 74, 75

Etavignv 10, U. 102 to 103

Etrepilly. 12, 1:5, St.Uo 101, 107 to 111, 118

Ferte-.sou.'i-Jouarre La) 12, 1.3

Fo.*.?e-3Iartln 10-'. 104

French Marshal) 5, 'J, 11

Fresnoy (5

(Jallieni i'General .... 4, 8, 12, 1 J. 102

Ganeval (lieneral 4

Germigny 118

Gillet (General; 4

Giie-a-Tre.sme.s yO. I'O, 114, 115

llaig (Douglas) (Gt nor.il^ 5

Hautefeuille !i

Ivemy 8. 9, 8(5

Joffre" 4, 8, 10. 22

Kliick (ron) 5

Lamaze (General dp; . 4. 9, 12, •■^S. 101.

107, 110

T.artigue (General de) . 4

Leguay (General) 4

JAzy gj 9

Ijombard (General 4

Iiuzancy i;;

liuzarches 8

Macon (Gustave) 2S

r.-.ge-

Magnard (Alberie; 7o, 7i

Mai.^oncplh's 1 1

Manoeuvre 112

^larljeau Jlgr) 7fi. 92, vi.'i

Marcilly. . . . . 10, II, 97, 98, 108 to m

Mareuil 8

Mauuoury ((General .... 4, fi. 10. 14

May-en-Muitien li. 11

.AIe.\ux 76 to SI, IIS

Megret .i2

Men; 7

Me.'-nll-Aubry Lp; 8

Jlontepilloy P, 7, 65, 0'^, 63

Moutge . ". !)

-Monthyon ••, 10. 86 to 90, U.i 110

JIout-rEveque 7

Montrolles (Woods ofj lOn

Morin i Grand) !>

Morin Pf tit) 12

Mortefontaine 7, 8

Xanteuil-le-Haudouin .... 12, 13, lOu

Nery ii

Xeufmontiers 84 to 87

Xeuilly-en-Thelle 7

Nivclle General; 102

Nogent-rArtaud l.S

Xogeon Farm; 102 to 108

Xongloire Farm; 98 to 100

< Idont (Mr; 50 to 52, 68

Ognon fiS

oi.-.sery 10

IVguy :Ch. 81".

Penchard 9, 7.5. 86 to 90, US

Pezarches 'j

Plessi.B-l'Iaev 112

Po!igny . ." 117 10 101, 107

Pont-Sainte-Maxence 6

I'liisieux 10, 11, 100, 101, lOS

PullPHpy (Lieut. Gen.) 5

Koberval ... r>

Rully 6

•Sacy-le-Grand fi

Saint-Soupjlets U. 10, 7'^, 88

Seulis (5, 7. 39 to 67

Signy-Signpts 12

Simon, 4.')

.•^iiiith Dorrien (8ir Horai-pi 5

Sorilet (Genpral) 4

Trentinian (General ile; 4

Tretoire ^La^ 12

Trilport 12

Troc%- . . 13. !i4, !i9 to 102. lOS. 112 .o Hi

Frbal (Major <r 1 10

Varreddes. . 11 to 13. 00. 0), 96, 110.

115 to 118

Vaudoy 9

Vautier (General; 4

Verl'iPrip 6

Vipl.^-Maisons 12

Villnret (General de; 4, 14

Villeroy 86

Villers-.Saint-Gon(•^t 11. 13

Vincy 0.', 402, 107, 108

CONTENTS

Forewood 2

HISTORICAL PART 3 to 15

Forces that came Into action 4, 5

Day of the 1st of September 1914 fi

2nd 7

3rd -- 8

— 4th and 5th - 9

— 6th - 10

— 7th — n

— 8th — 12

— 9th — 13

— lOth to the 13th — 14

Summary 15

Outline of the tour IC,

TOURIST'S GUIDE 17 to 118

Practical information 18

Chantiily 19 to 3G

Joffrb's Gkskual Headquauters 22, 23

Castle 24

HisTOET OF Castle. . . . • 25 to 30

Visit to the Castle 31 to 33

Vtsit to the Park 31 to 36

From Chantiily to Seniis 3f;

Senlis 37 to 67

Historical 3'J

Visit to the town 40 to 54

Artistic Sexlis 53 to 67

From Senlis to Meaux 68 to 75

via ("haiiKint I'p. 68), ironti'-pilloy (p. 69), Baron (p. 70), Chaalis (p. 72),
Eniipuonville (p. 74j.

Meaux 76 to 81

Historical 76

Visit to tiif, towx 77 to 81

Visit to the Ourcq battle-fields 82 to 118

From JIeaux to Marcilly 84 to 98

via Chaucouin (p. 84), Xeufmontiers (p. 84), Monthyon (p. 86),
Penchard (p. 86), Chambry (p. 92), Barcy (p. 94).

From JIaroilly to ^trepilly 9.' to 111

via Puisipux (p. 100), Nogeon (p. 102\ Acv (p. 102), Etavigny (p. 102K
B tz (p. 103), Acy (p. 105), Vincy (p. 107"..

From vVi'REPiLLY TO Meaux 112 to 118

via Trucy ('p. 112), Giu'-a-Tresinps (p. 114), Varnddis ip. 116).

Index of names and localities of military interest mentioned in this

work 119

PLANS AND MAPS

Plan of Chantili.y. black 21

— Sexi.is, In 2 coloar.s between 38 and 39

— Meaux, — — TG and 77

Map OF the regiox of Skxlis, in 4 colours — 68 and 69

— — l'Ourcq, — — 82 and 83

imp. berger-levrault, naxcy

You don't know what

Good road map

is, if you haven't used

the Michelin
1 : 200.000 map,

p5Sfc^-

^^ ^ -^ ^'

^^p^^^-:^^

^^^Kl

^feCu^^^

^^S

On sale
at Michelin

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and

booksellers.

The tourist finds his way
about easily in a town, if he
has a map giving the names of
the streets.

He gets about with the same ease
and certainty on the road, it he has
a Michelin map, because it gives
the numbers of all the roads.

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LES RUINES DES VOSGES

By femile Vagner. 1910. 2 vols of 45o pages, with iia photograps. — /. Partie
septentrionate. — //. Partie mSridionale. Paper : 3 fr. 5o. Clotli. 4 fr. 5o

L'HIVER 19x4-1915 DANS LES HAUTS DE MEUSE,
21 DRAWING FROM NATURE

By Maktelet-Martel. With preface letter by M. Ch. Igounet de Villers. Album
4vo oblong with illustrated cover (Edition limited to 600 numbered copies). i5 fr.

rniNTING FOR ' SYNDIGATS DINITIATIVE ' AND FOR TOURING

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